The coca de San Juan is the absolute protagonist of every self-respecting verbena, along with cava, although until the 19th century, the liquid accompaniment was not bubbles, but rather rancid wine or sweet wine. The tradition of this intake is ancient, and derives from that in which the coca was a sweet of a round shape that referred to pagan cults, especially that of the sun and its summer solstice. This coca was made in homes, and since these did not have an oven, they took them to bakers to bake them. With the birth of the first pastry shops in the 19th century, the custom changed, so that they were no longer a homemade sweet but were acquired in these establishments, and the recipe became sweeter, providing both the cherries and the candied fruit that we enjoy today in the cocas de San Juan. And up to the present day, 150 years after its popularization.
Like every tradition, we can find pastry shops that offer classic options, such as fruit coca or filled ones (normally with pastry cream and truffled chocolate cream), which always have their audience, as well as more creative products that, starting from an oval or round base, unfold a referential universe to the coca with innovative and delicious products.
Tradition never goes out of style
Speaking of fruit coca, Oriol Balaguer, one of the essential pastry chefs to explain the modern history of pastry for his creations, offers in his five establishments in the city his traditional cocas de San Juan, one of the stars being the brioche with fruits, pine nuts, and sugar, in a single size, for 28 euros. Bubó does the same, with an offer made up of four options, including the brioche with fruits, the gianduia with roses, the cream and cherry, and the one filled with cream and pine nuts. It has the advantage of taking into account three sizes: small, medium, and large, with prices ranging between 19 and 23 euros.
Regarding awards, Pastelería Carrió, located on Bailén street and currently led by the Carrió siblings (Oriol in the workshop and Anna in the store, the second generation), offers an exceptional cream coca with the recipe that in 2019 earned recognition from the Guild of Pastry Chefs of Barcelona as the best San Juan cream coca: the cream is made with Madagascar vanilla and decorated with pine nuts, almonds, and dark hazelnut, not to mention the delicious double-fermented bun that contains this entire sweet collection and costs 25 euros.
Mervier Canal does not miss the unavoidable sweet event of San Juan and, this year, does so with a new and delicious addition: to its renowned puff pastry and brioche cocas (fruit, cream, with and without filling of the same, and the fruit-filled with cream) is added the chocolate one, with chocolate filling and finished with sugar and sliced almonds. This novelty is presented in a single size, for two or three diners, for 24 euros. All these creations can now be ordered at any of its two workshop stores, in Muntaner and Calvet.
Creativity, at the service of cocas
The brioche coca with lemon, basil, and olive oil from Pastelería Brunells del Born has been recognized this year as the best creative coca among those presented at the competition. The interesting and refreshing combination of lemon with basil in the filling cream was highlighted, as well as the oil used (Bargalló extra virgin olive oil): an original proposal to celebrate the shortest night of the year. It can now be enjoyed in two sizes, the individual for 4.90 euros, and the coca in its classic format, for 23.
In another vein, Jon Cake has already turned its San Juan coca cheesecake into a new classic for lovers of groundbreaking proposals. In each edition, and this 2023 will be the third, he has joined forces with a master pastry chef, working his famous Basque-style cheesecake with a classic author's fruit coca. On this occasion, he once again teams up with master pastry chef Oriol Carrió, from Pastelería Carrió. It can be reserved and purchased at his Born store and at Jon Cake & Wine from June 22 to 24. The price depends on the size: the small one costs 13 euros; the medium, 24, and the large, 40.
In the wake of mixing the sweet with the savory world, L'Atelier and La Pastisseria add two interesting proposals to their traditional brioche or puff pastry cocas: for its part, L'Atelier, formed by the duo of pastry chefs Eric Ortuño and Ximena Pastor, combines creativity with the exceptional 48-month cured Jabugo ham from Ramos, one of the most emblematic stops in the Mercat de la Boqueria, to vindicate the artisan tradition and gastronomic culture. This coca is made with puff pastry filled with cream dough with Iberian fat and ham cubes, and is crowned with slices of delicious ham. It can now be reserved for 22 euros. At La Pastisseria, Josep Maria Rodríguez and Ana Jarquín turn their gaze towards the savory in an exceptional crispy coca with oven-roasted escalivada eggplant with sun-dried tomatoes, arugula, and parmesan that can be acquired in a single size and price, 40 euros. Perhaps these two cocas will be the star protagonists of the pre-dessert snack?
La Dramerie, the project created by pastry chefs Víctor Gonzalo and Sofia Janer, is proud to sweeten dramas with deliciously sweet desserts for the soul and stomach. What is no drama is that all their seasonal creations are anchored in some traditional elaboration, and are complemented with a large dose of good humor. For this Sant Joan, they re-release the successful La Juanita: Normandy butter brioche filled with burnt orange and vanilla cream with caramelized local pine nuts and a airy mascarpone and organic Madagascar vanilla chantilly. It is sold for 45 euros for eight people, and will be available for pick-up at their workshop on Cornet y Mas street from June 22 to 24, with essential prior reservation.
And finally, what would the verbena be without a good ice cream made with coca de San Juan? DelaCrem's San Juan coca ice cream is a new classic: more than ten years ago, the Mervier Canal pastry shop proposed to Massimo Pignata, master ice cream maker, the creation of an ice cream with their traditional coca. Now the tradition, more than ten years later, is driven by DelaCrem, which punctually offers this unique ice cream when the month of June begins. But there's more: the novelty at Pignata's this year is the incorporation of a new flavor very much in keeping with the occasion, the llardons coca ice cream. Their prices range from 3.40 euros for a small tub or cone, up to 22 euros for a liter.
In Barcelona, we have options to celebrate the San Juan verbena for all tastes and in multiple formats, showing once again that this city, recognized internationally for its gastronomy, enjoys good health in its sweet side, be it traditional or innovative. Let's enjoy with cava, as tradition dictates!
Add The New Barcelona Post as your preferred Google source for free
Stay informed with the latest news.
