Mas Marroch, the restaurant of the Roca brothers in Vilablareix (Girona), has been the setting for the XX Edition of the Premis Nacionals de Gastronomia. In the words of the president of the Acadèmia Catalana de Gastronomia i Nutrició (ACGN), Carles Vilarrubí, "today we meet again after two years without being able to celebrate this gala dinner. And we do so with the same enthusiasm and stimulus as always," he indicates, "to recognize those who make it possible for our gastronomy and cuisine to be so recognized in the world."
The return of a longed-for gala in a restaurant that was not one before is, in itself, a certain metaphor for the world we left behind two years ago and which today, perhaps, we are recovering. But nothing is the same: many restaurant professionals sought new opportunities in other sectors (and now there is a pressing lack of them), classics of the gastronomic scene closed due to the impossibility of moving forward in an uncertain future, and new actors have appeared with overwhelming force, some (trying) to replace those who gave up.
A change of cycle is never noticeable while it is happening; it is perceived afterwards, with analysis. In a few months, we will see if the resurgence of the leisure, hospitality, and restaurant sector in the last six months is a phenomenon that will settle or whose bubbling foam will vanish with the same rapidity with which it was generated, seeking the simile of uncorking a sparkling wine.
But, without leaving behind that cheerful glass of cava, it is fair to celebrate that Catalan gastronomy has a very good pulse. There are 20 years of consecutive awards, and more than 90 professionals recognized for a past and present trajectory (thanking the future). The quarries, albeit somewhat slowly, renew this scene with different and evolving faces, sensibilities, and projections. However, what these professionals recognized in 20 years have in common is passion, dedication, responsibility, and pride of belonging. A stripe that is worn on the suit, with a smile of intimate satisfaction.
Albert Sastregener i Surroca, chef and owner of the Bo.Tic restaurant in Corçà, Girona, is recognized with the National Gastronomy Award, just over a year after achieving the second star from the renowned tire guide. Although the focus is on Sastregener, he has always shared the merit and exposure to praise with his partner and associate, Cristina Torrent. Both form an irreducible duo, each governing the kitchen and dining room under the same precepts of excellence and dedication to put an evolving author's cuisine inspired by traditional cuisine on the map.
Elisabet Farrero i Iglesias, chef and owner of the El Ventador restaurant in Barruera in the Vall de Boí, obtains the Revelation Award. As such, Elisabet (or Eli, as she introduces herself) shines just like her personal story: without professional cooking studies, beyond an internship at Dos Palillos, nor a history of family ties to the sector, Eli arrives by chance. Or not, because as a humanist (graduate) that she is, a curious and evolving mind learns and discovers her potential. Barruera, her hometown, has been slowly transformed since Farrero's return in 2014 with her partner, also chef Pierre Cosnard. Now from the capital of the Vall de Boí, an interesting territorial cuisine is projected in which gastronomy finds an exponent that expresses both traditional mountain cuisine and the most creative versions.
Joan Junyent i Franco, head waiter and owner of the Windsor restaurant in Barcelona, is awarded the Head Waiter Award, a distinction that applauds a professional career linked to Windsor: from his beginnings as a waiter in 1997, becoming head waiter nine months later to become its director in just under a year, and finally, as owner, always excelling in his eagerness to excel in his field. Junyent, with gratitude, highlights the "need to put the dining room at the same level as the kitchen, although it may seem obvious, it is that same obviousness that until recently had left the dining room and its professionals somewhat forgotten. Hopefully these awards will serve to motivate the generations that are being trained," he continues, "so that they see that there is recognition for those who strive to give their best for the enjoyment of diners, as a team."
Carla Simón i Pipó, the acclaimed director of the acclaimed film Alcarràs, receives the Special Academy Award for the delicacy, honesty, and coherence with which the territory is represented in her filmography. Especially in Alcarràs, where a deep knowledge of a rural society that depends on the land for its sustenance is distilled, in a changing world that must be assimilated quickly.
Joining the list of awards this year is the Néstor Luján Award, granted to journalist and writer Joan Esculies i Serrat for his article The Catalan Star of Aztec Restoration. Published in La Vanguardia, it traces the history of Dalmau Costa, an exile who exchanged politics for gastronomy. An exponent who, without intending to be, revolutionized for thirty years the presence of European cuisine (including Catalan) in the capital of Mexico that welcomed him from his restaurant Ambassadeurs.
A night to celebrate, reconnect, and analyze what 2021 has brought to Catalan gastronomy, but also to try to glimpse what may happen in the six months remaining until the end of 2022. Recovering the simile of the cava glass, as long as it is in hand, let's celebrate.
A multitudinous gala at Mas Marroch
The President of the Generalitat, Pere Aragonès, presided over the awards ceremony for the National Gastronomy Awards, in an evening that brought together important representatives from the world of cooking and restoration, as well as prominent businessmen, this Wednesday. The event was attended by brothers Joan and Pitu Roca ---who acted as hosts--- and chefs such as Carme Ruscalleda, Nandu Jubany, Sergio Torres, Pere Monje, Carles Gaig, Fina Puigdevall, or Marc Gascons, among many others. Also present were former President of the Generalitat, Artur Mas, and multiple representatives of public administrations and the media, in addition to professionals and people linked to the world of gastronomy and tourism, such as sommelier Ferran Centelles, Toni Massanés (Alicia Foundation), Gregorio Salas (Casacas Rojas), or Marian Muro (Turisme de Barcelona).
From the business sector, Sol Daurella (Coca-Cola Europacific Partners), Artur Carulla (Agrolimen), Jorge Villavecchia (Damm), Ramon Agenjo (Damm and Cacaolat), José Creuheras (Planeta), Ciril Rozman and Manuel Cermerón (Agbar), Jaume Massana (CaixaBank), Tatxo Benet (Mediapro), Joaquín Uriach (Uriach), Josep Ametller (Ametller Origen), Fernando Rodés (ISPD), Quim Vila and Ciscu Martí (Vila Viniteca), Ernestina Torelló (Torelló), Carles Sumarroca (Agromejora), Valentí and Ramón Roqueta (Roqueta Origen), Rosa María Esteva (Mordisco), Josep Lagares (Metalquimia) or Beto Agustí (Sport Cultura Barcelona), among many others, shared a table at Mas Marroch.
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