080, renew or die

Frenzy. Intensity. Reinvention. These are attributes that seem to set the pace of current society, dominated by busy agendas and a constant thirst for growth and evolution. And fashion, like any other artistic and human manifestation, is not alien to this pulse that moves society. Renew or die is a motto that has always marked the fashion industry, with designers who, year after year, try to seduce consumers with novel and unexpected collections. However, this unwritten motto seems to have gained more strength than ever in the 36th edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion, the edition that has marked the end of a long and prolific stage and the beginning of another.

An idea of renewal, intrinsic in the very conception of fashion and collections, that has permeated this 080 more than ever. A renewal, in part, forced, because with this edition the Catalan catwalk bids farewell to the space that has given it essence and identity in recent years: the modernist complex of Sant Pau. An iconic space, with its porticos designed by Domènech i Montaner, which gave the Barcelona fashion week a unique aura, allowing art to be breathed and observed in every corner.

A space that, however, the 080 is forced to change, due to the rehabilitation works that the modernist complex will face during the next year and that make it impossible for its next edition, in the spring of 2026, to be held in Sant Pau. A change that, despite being forced, the organization faces not with nostalgia, but with the hope that this change will mark a new stage. In fact, the organization had been warning since previous editions that the modernist complex had become too small for the ambitious plans of the 080, so they trust that the new location —which they hope to announce during the autumn— will allow the catwalk to grow both in its link with the city and its inhabitants, and in international presence. In this edition, the four days have managed to gather more than 11,000 attendees, with some shows packed to capacity, and even with a hundred people staying outside the catwalk.

"In this 080 we put a full stop, we don't know if it's a comma, but it is a full stop to the collaboration with Sant Pau", acknowledged Moisés Rodríguez, director of the Consorci de Comerç, Artesania i Moda de Catalunya (CCAM). But if its change of location marks a turning point, the catwalk also begins to write a new chapter in its history, as it is the first edition in which they have had the support of the Barcelona City Council which, for now, has meant an increase of 150,000 euros to the total budget of the 080.

The council has also taken advantage of the fashion week as an excuse to present the selected projects that will be exhibited in the pop-up of Barcelona Fashion Forward (BFF), the program that aims to promote emerging brands and that this year will be exhibited in the Trent store. However, for future editions, the organization trusts that this collaboration with the council will extend and can reinforce the 080's program of activities with new formats, especially considering the City Council's commitment to this sector, through its renewed Fashion Plan.

These new formats that the organization has already begun to explore this year, following that idea of renovation —rather than extinction— which, without a doubt, has marked the edition. With exhibitors such as those of Spain Gallery, a digital fashion multiplatform, which has shown outfits in the 080 Open Area from 22 national brands, an exhibition that has been complemented with workshops and talks by different professionals. As a novelty, Artesania de Catalunya has debuted with the first edition of 080 Beyond Crafts, a tribute to crafts, in this case with an exhibition dedicated to millinery in which names such as Swan Salon or Magdalena Hart have participated.

But the leitmotiv of renovation has not only been felt off the catwalk, but also on it: with designers who have opted —as it could not be otherwise— for new trends, but also for reinventing classics and for garments that break gender conventions and even the very idea of consumerism. On the catwalk, the concept of transformation has been translated into renewed fabrics, shapes and discourses.

Draping, flowing blouses, superimposed layers or large accessories are just some of the trends that designers have advanced for the spring 2026 season. These fashion shows have been responsible for sending a clear message to the attendees of the 080 who, mobile in hand, struggled to find the best angle to not miss a single detail of the risky outfits crossing the runway.

Fashion is art, this was felt not only in the garments but also in what surrounded them: from the yogi dance with which Escorpion inaugurated the 080 to the power of voice and live saxophone that accompanied the models of Acceptance Letter as they paraded —a Korean designer who, after debuting in Berlin and Seoul, lands for the first time in the Catalan capital—, without forgetting the explicit references to art in the garments, such as GAU's collection inspired by the always astonishing Garden of Earthly Delights by El Bosco.

But if there is one idea that has reigned in this 36th edition of the 080, it has undoubtedly been the concept of upcycling, which has emerged as a true declaration of intent shared among designers. A concept that has been felt more strongly than ever: not only recycling fabrics to give them a second life, but also recovering and renewing classic inspiration and themes, but always with a very current perspective. This was proven by Dominnico, who, inspired by Rococo, filled the runway with exaggerated wigs, corsets, or pastel roses, but with a contemporary look: with a Marie Antoinette —embodied by Jessica Goicochea— wearing a biker jacket, but, of course, without forgetting the references to the guillotine with models exhibiting large decapitated heads.

And in fact, this mix of tradition and renewal is a constant at the 080, a runway that always seeks to balance local companies with a long trajectory –from Lola Casademunt, Simorra or Custo Barcelona– with emerging brands or designers who see their garments on the runway for the first time, and even specific brands such as Guillermina Baeza swimwear. In total, over its four days, a total of 24 designers have showcased their garments.

And the 080 has also served to champion another argument: in the fashion industry there is space for everyone, from emerging designers to consolidated brands. And, what's more, if fashion wants to survive and renew itself, it must adapt to society and be able to reflect its diversity. A diversity that is expressed with garments that break gender conceptions, blurring the line between masculine and feminine, but also through varied bodies and models: of all sizes, ethnic origins and ages, with shows that have featured women over 50, a fact not yet too common on the runways.

Renew to preserve

"The 080 helps us make an essential message visible: we must buy less, and, in addition, more timeless and higher quality clothing so that we can extend its lifespan," said Pilar Chiva, director of the circular economy area of the Catalan Waste Agency. An essential message in the face of alarming figures: each inhabitant of Catalonia is generating between 20 and 22 kilos of textile waste per year, and only 12% ends up being recycled or reused.

With the purpose of reversing these figures, the Agency has been promoting this fashion show for four editions together with Girbau LAB, the innovation space of Girbau, the leading company in industrial laundry solutions and textile treatment, which works to accompany textile companies towards a change in production and consumption models. "It is essential that we understand that fashion is a cultural expression and a heritage that, in order for us to transmit it to future generations, we must care for and preserve, extending the lifespan of garments," remarked the director of Girbau LAB, Clara Guasch, who hopes that one day garments from the designers participating in fashion week can be showcased on the 080 Reborn runway, thus closing the circle.

Inspiration on and off the runway

Among these attendees, maxi-volumes, superimposed layers, fur coats despite the spring atmosphere, impossible heels echoing on the modernist pavement, or exaggerated make-up become commonplace during the four days of 080, to the bewildered gaze of tourists visiting the historic site, and even more bewildered gazes when attendees leave the complex and stroll with these outfits through the streets and public transport of Barcelona. These elements and accessories, however, are symbols that the Catalan capital has a desire and thirst for fashion, but not only to observe it, but also to embody it.

"The 080 can aspire to become the best fashion week in the world"Because, in this way, the 080 manages to strengthen and boost a complex and plural ecosystem, with no less than 12,500 companies dedicated to the fashion industry in Catalonia, and more than 80,000 employees between industry and commerce. With a record turnover, moreover: since only the 800 main companies generate more than 14,000 million euros.

These figures reflect, for the Minister of Business and Labor, Miquel Sàmper, that the Catalan fashion industry has the potential to shine internationally. For this reason, it does not need spells or spiritual and hypnotizing dances like the one that served as the inauguration of the 080 Barcelona Fashion —and with which Escorpion wanted to pay tribute to Bernat Biosca, who was CEO of the firm and passed away last June—.

For Sàmper, however, it is not about magic or spells, but that the Catalan industry already has all the ingredients to shine. And the recipe is also clear: bet on innovation, proximity, quality, and sustainability. "There is no doubt that, with the creativity and talent existing in Catalonia, which the Government must promote, the 080 can aspire to become the best fashion week in the world," Sàmper assessed.