The rise of Indian gastronomy in Barcelona

Nath Surinder opened Tandoor in 2002, in a small place on Calàbria street, with the hope of spreading the gastronomic culture of his country and, specifically, the one inherited from his mother. The choice of this name was a complete success because the best place to capture the street flavor, the crowd and the shouting of metropolitan India is in this traditional oven, the tandoor.

Barcelona was then timidly opening like a flower to all that cuisine that was not European: the delicacy of Thai cuisine, the exoticism of Vietnamese, the Peking duck of Chinese, Japanese sushi and understanding that fish was eaten raw, and, of course, spicy Indian.

Understanding that Indian gastronomy is not spicy, but spiced, has taken us decades of assumption. And in this journey, it has helped to gradually understand that this cuisine is based on slow cooking and stews that absorb the aromas, properties and flavors of spices, which can be combined almost infinitely. The varied combinations of spices used in cooking achieve such powerful flavors that, of course, an untrained palate can translate as spicy.

Nath Surinder opened Tandoor in 2002, in a small place on Calabria street, with the hope of spreading the gastronomic culture of his country and, specifically, the one inherited from his mother

Fifteen years later, the representation of Indian cuisine has evolved thanks to the emergence of more complex and specialized gastronomic proposals, presenting nuances and even showcasing regional cuisines that, from north to south, can be so disparate. The most curious and intrepid Barcelona palate now understands that vada pav is the sandwich that best represents Delhi street food (Mirch), that curry can be potent and spicy or soft and sweet depending on whether it is from the north or the south (Masala 73), that fish is the protagonist of stews from the south and its islands (Little Andaman) or that samosa is a glorious empanada eaten in the streets of Mumbai (thanks to Bar Bar).

With the opening of these restaurants, many stereotypes are being dynamited, offering local diners the opportunity to travel with their palate through the 29 states of the Indian federation and discover not only surprising dishes but also spiced drinks that are an ineffable source of energy and health, like chai. In fact, the best chai according to many authoritative voices is the one Chai Guy prepares. The only drawback is that Bahram Ehsas (that's his name) does not have his own place, and to know where to find him, it is important to follow his social media, where he announces where he will nest the next weekend.

In any case, the best way to get to know a culture and learn about it is by eating, and right now is a great moment: with this Thursday, November 4, as the highlight, the Indian community in Barcelona celebrates Diwali for five days, the equivalent of our New Year's Eve. As in every celebration, the axis is shared food, thus celebrating the victory of light over darkness, of good over evil. For this reason, lighting with candles is so important, and one of its symbols. From live music proposals with sitar, decorations with candles of great beauty and sensitivity to typical desserts like Diwali carrot cake, everything is prepared so that on that day the rich Indian gastronomy shines like never before and Barcelonians become part of it.

Tandoor

Ivan Surinder took the reins of his father Nath's restaurant seven years ago with a creative, refreshing proposal adapted to the Barcelona palate of the time, little accustomed to spice. Currently, with this barrier overcome for many lovers of Indian cuisine, what Tandoor represents is an evolved cuisine that draws inspiration from tradition to build its own high-quality gastronomic personal discourse. Good examples of this are its new sea bass curry with curry leaf, mustard, coconut milk, and turmeric, or the Dahi Papdi, a chickpea flour crisp with spiced yogurt and tamarind, accompanied by cherry tomatoes.

Mirch

Ivan Surinder himself opened this self-proclaimed indian garito (Indian joint) in the heart of Raval just over a year ago, focusing on its more street-food, spicier, casual, and unprecedented side, as until then little was known about vada pav. This succulent brioche bun sandwich, which in Delhi is made with potato, is filled with delicious stews and is the best-selling item on the streets of that great city. At Mirch, it is essential to try the butter chicken one, a spectacle of spiced and fried chicken thigh that is very good.

Bar Bar

Although in our language Bar Bar may seem a somewhat futile play on words, in Hindi it means "again and again." When tasting Nikhil Mahale's cuisine, one understands that what is desired is precisely that, to return again and again. It is a full-fledged sensory journey, with a short menu that reflects a careful intention to represent the cuisines of the 29 Indian states with their most representative dishes and their most traditional flavor. The beauty of its plating is captivating, a result of chef Mahale's extensive experience in gastronomic kitchens around the world. And the story behind each dish is fascinating: for example, the Shikam Puri Kabab is a delicious bite of minced lamb with stone-ground spices, goat cheese sauce, and beetroot foam. It was a dish for kings: the meat was presented extremely finely minced so that the king only had to swallow... Chewing was for the common people! Be that as it may, Bar Bar showcases an endless array of unprecedented and surprising dishes that will change Barcelona's perception of Indian gastronomy and its versatility.

Masala 73

To say Masala 73 is to say curry. In this curry bar, delicious curries are eaten thanks to the perseverance of Kuldeep Singh and Jordi Arós, who envisioned that this dish would be the new weakness of Barcelona residents in 2018, when they opened their doors on Muntaner street. Specialized in this succulent spiced stew, they present different versions of it according to the seasons. Currently, you can enjoy the tikka masala, with marinated chicken breast roasted in the tandoor with a mild tikka masala curry blend in its spicing, with tomato and almonds.

Chennai Masala Dosa

This family restaurant in Gràcia specializes in South Indian dishes, which are almost entirely vegan and gluten-free because chickpea flour is one of the main ingredients in their preparations. The most celebrated is the dosa, very similar to a crêpe: the dough is made of rice and beans and, once cooked, it is rolled up and can be dipped in sauces or filled with stews and various ingredients. Chennai Masala Dosa offers very tasty and satisfying food that transports you with every bite to sunny South India.

Little Andaman

And since we are in the south, how about discovering the cuisine of the islands in that area? These dishes are what predominate on the menu of Little Andaman, the new restaurant from the Bembi group with a focus on this seafood cuisine, so unknown in our city until now. From steamed prawns with garlic Andaman style (with spring onions and cilantro) to kulcha, a bread similar to naan with fermented dough that they fill with four options (butter chicken, spinach with fresh cheese, indian pan with tomato and blue cheese). Accompanying these island specialties with a cocktail is like traveling to that land of scorching sun, white sand, and tall palm trees. The modern and sophisticated interior design deepens that sensation.