The historic Barcelona restaurant Casa Leopoldo witnessed two weeks ago the moment when I was able to overcome one of the pending subjects accumulated during my life. And it is that I was finally able to meet in person one of my references, the writer Eduardo Mendoza, shake his hand and confess to him that he is the reason I write. The story goes back to high school, when we were made to read his novel El misterio de la cripta embrujada. That changed my life. I was very impressed with that story that broke the molds of the narrative that until then, 45 years ago, I knew. One could write in another way, fun, sometimes transgressive. It was not necessary to do it like Dumas, Stendhal or Pío Baroja. Meeting Mendoza, and at Leopoldo, was a great moment.
And that was possible because the iconic Raval establishment organized a lunch to pay tribute to the former owner Rosa Gil, granddaughter of the founders, who ran the restaurant until she transferred it in 2015. In addition to Mendoza, other illustrious diners attended, such as chef Carme Ruscalleda, businessmen Pedro Balañá and Carles Vilarrubí, hotelier Joan Gaspart and Manuel Vázquez Montalbán's son, Daniel Vázquez Sallés, and his partner, sommelier Meritxell Falgueras, from Celler de Gelida. Even the mayor, Jaume Collboni, was there at the beginning, although he could not stay for lunch.
The absence of greats from other times who are no longer among us was noted, such as the aforementioned Vázquez Montalbán, Juan Marsé and Terenci Moix, although a screen above the bar at the entrance reminded them. Great names in journalism who have also passed away, such as Martí Gómez and Joan de Segarra, were also missed. Another renowned journalist, Maruja Torres, could not attend for personal reasons. However, the representation of press members was numerous. Among them, Víctor Amela and Joaquín Luna. And, above all, bullfighting nostalgics who recalled old times, when Casa Leopoldo was one of the ground zeros of bullfighting gatherings.
How good that Casa Leopoldo has returned; now it is Barcelona that has to return to Casa LeopoldoThe restaurant was founded in 1929 by Leopoldo Gil. The history of Casa Leopoldo is linked almost from the beginning to bullfighting. Rosa Gil's father, Germán, was a bullfighter, and she married another Portuguese matador, José Falcao, who died in the arena of the Monumental one August afternoon in 1974.
In 2015, Rosa transferred the restaurant. After some experiences that did not consolidate, a year ago Casa Leopoldo passed into the hands of the Banco de Boquerones group, which, led by the couple Bruno Balbás and Sofía Matarazzo, manages other restaurants in Barcelona. Their goal is to return Leopoldo to Barcelona, as faithful as possible to its glorious past. Fortunately, the fantastic decoration of the premises has been preserved as it is protected.
Now, the new owners are focused on recovering the dishes on which the restaurant on Sant Rafael street built its legend. The diners invited to Rosa Gil's tribute could confirm this. The menu included some dishes that for decades were part of its menu, such as meatballs with cuttlefish or the mythical oxtail. However, many missed the famous tortell that used to be served for dessert and was supplied by the nearby Lis pastry shop.
As a party finale, the fado performed by Rosa Gil herself could not be missed, with which she used to delight in the endless after-dinner conversations at Leopoldo. On this occasion, she performed Romance de la Otra.
How good that Casa Leopoldo has returned. Now it is Barcelona that has to return to Casa Leopoldo. For almost a decade, we have been orphaned of a restaurant with history through which people like Lola Flores, Manolo Caracol, Orson Welles, Rita Hayworth, Edith Piaf, Juliette Binoche... And a long list that Rosa remembered on the day of the tribute in a magnificent interview given to her by Víctor Amela.