Many Barcelona residents loyal to the city center have known for some years that at Bar La Esquina they had a corner where they could enjoy a good brunch or a competent informal meal at affordable prices. But the arrival of chef Luis Cors in 2023 began to infuse sparkle and solidity into the gastronomic proposal of this charming establishment linked to the centenary Hotel Regina on Bergara street, to the point of giving it a recent change of direction that has turned it into an oasis for eating or dining frankly well in the heart of the tourist hustle and bustle.
They define it as a “contemporary tavern,” with market produce, Mediterranean roots, local flavors, and the alliance of fire provided by its Josper oven. This small ‘secret,’ transmitted by word-of-mouth among ‘foodies,’ makes visitors and locals coexist in a balanced cosmopolitan atmosphere. It is also a pleasant space, with a bar and marble tables, where small groups and tables for two coexist.
Cors trained at the Santander hospitality school and in the Catalan capital he has honed his skills in restaurants such as La Pubilla (Gràcia), where he was head chef. The chef is faithful to his principles of respect for seasonal produce, a modern touch on traditional cuisine, and virtuous technique, which translates into cuisine with ‘punch’.
Grill and charcoal are the common thread, they argue, but behind all the dishes, nuances, sensitivity, and the personality of the chef are appreciated, who venerates nuts and the aromas of secondary ingredients that give soul to his creations.
The menu is multifaceted and satisfies appetites without borders. In the area, there is no visitor who does not ask for rice dishes, and at La Esquina they launch two torpedoes on their menu: the cuttlefish and red prawn rice, and the creamy rib and roasted pepper rice. But they have also launched a midday formula (38 euros per person) that includes three seasonal starters (currently, Three-meat Croquette, Tomato salad, pickles and mató, and Mussels with cream and fennel), and a rice dish to choose from (the farmer's rice with trumpets of death or the classic boat rice with prawns). It is finished with a drink, and for dessert, chocolate, bread and oil.
From steak to stew
Among the novelties that raise the bar for an opulent meal, beyond the good brunch that characterized them, the carnivorous vein stands out, ranging from the boneless free-range chicken roasted over thyme charcoal, to the one-kilo 45-day aged Simmental beef T-bone steak, passing through the glazed Ral Avinyo pork belly with balsamic green romesco, or one of the best steaks that can be eaten in the area, their 180 gr. national beef sirloin selection (26 euros) which can optionally be crowned with an extraordinary grilled foie gras.
But beyond these main dishes that give body to their gastronomic offer, the menu allows opting from fun snacking to a feast. A good grilled sourdough bread is a true calling card, before being tempted by their Ensaladilla with pickled bonito (9 euros); their colorful Prawn Salpicón with emulsified vinaigrette, with a rejuvenated revival air; their powerful stew Croquettes (surely unparalleled in a wide radius); the Barceloneta-style "bomba" potato Tortilla; or the special dishes of the fortnight that one should always be attentive to, which in our case allowed us to try the Grilled Pumpkin with Mahón cheese, arugula and pine nuts, a wonderful harmony of textures and flavors that we recommend to anyone who finds it another day.
Fans of stews will find joy in the Braised oxtail, or in a now omnipresent dish that we did not try but that they promise with the Cors seal, the "a la minute" gratinéed Macarrones La Esquina.
Sardines and skewers
The small selection of fish ranges from the noblest (Sea bass, shallot cream and chive oil, recommended for sharing) to the popular, with some Grilled Sardines with garlic and parsley (12 euros) that a central restaurant finally dares to reclaim, in tune with nutritionists and sustainable fishing.
Among the daily specials, it is also worth trying, if the occasion arises, the Grilled Cuttlefish, with creamy potato and toasted almonds, which well portray the chef's character, with a careful presentation, first-class product and a desire to subtly elevate the main flavors, again allied with nuts.
Although it competently aligns essential local appetizer dishes, it surprises by going beyond the predictable with the Roasted sobrasada and smoked burrata, or the Monkfish and prawn skewer, Lourdes water and garlic chips, for those looking for a less orthodox seafood dish.
A selection of separate side dishes (from 4 to 6 euros) allows finishing the dishes with vegetables: French fries, Baix Llobregat lettuce salad, wood-fired peppers or baked potato with butter.
The culinary foray is completed with a well-thought-out wine list to pair with the nuances of grilled dishes and stews, and with bi-weekly suggestions that stimulate discoveries from different DOs.
Bar La Esquina Bergara, 2 Barcelona
Open Monday to Sunday from 12:00h to 23:30h
bar@laesquinabarcelona.com 34 937 687 242