Joana Munné was born in Barcelona and trained in Catalan Philology at the Central University of Barcelona, in addition to studying Classical Ballet and Dramatic Art. She grew up working at the family restaurant and hotel, located in a natural park between Barcelona and Girona, where she trained in the hospitality trade from a young age. In December 1996, she moved to São Paulo (Brazil), where she has resided ever since. In 2002, she founded Agència Síbaris there, a communication and public relations consultancy specializing in gastronomy, with an all-female team, working with chefs, restaurants, brands, and the hospitality sector in Latin America, Europe, and the United States.
Throughout her career, she has been key in the international projection of Brazilian cuisine: she brought Santi Santamaria to Brazil and Alex Atala to Madrid Fusión, among other gastronomic bridges between Catalonia and Brazil. She has been a gastronomic curator for Farol Santander, has presented the program "Na Casa Deles" on Discovery H&H, and regularly moderates debates on female leadership in the Brazilian hospitality sector. Catalan by origin and Brazilian by adoption, Munné is today one of the reference voices when it comes to explaining Brazilian gastronomy to the world —and Catalan and Spanish to Brazil—, with a perspective that combines nostalgia for Catalan family cuisine with enthusiasm for South American gastronomic diversity.
—You grew up in a family restaurant and hotel between Barcelona and Girona. What did that experience teach you that you still apply today?
—It taught me everything: I worked as a waitress from age 14 to 26. I learned the trade, about hospitality and the psychology one must use when dealing with the public. I feel great gratitude towards my parents for this, I never would have imagined it would serve me so much. My mother taught me to appreciate Catalan cuisine, traditional dishes, and the seasonal products she used at Ou de Reig. My father educated me about cigars, whiskies, the art of serving, of producing a wedding or a party at Can Barrina.
—You moved to São Paulo in 1996. How was that leap? What led you there and what did you expect to find?
—Love brought me there, I met my first husband who is Brazilian and lived in Barcelona. He decided to return to São Paulo and invite me to spend Christmas and New Year's Eve. I left everything and ventured to a city 20 times larger than mine. I immediately felt good there, with the affection of the people. I fell in love with the country and its people. I have never returned.
—With almost 30 years in Brazil, how would you define your identity today: Catalan in Brazil, Brazilian by adoption, or something in between the two?
—I feel Brazilian in some things: I hug tightly, I am more sociable and I really like meeting new people. However, my essence has not changed: I feel more and more Catalan, and if I had to answer where I am from, it is from Catalonia.
“I feel more and more Catalan, and if I had to answer where I am from, it is from Catalonia”
—What do you miss about Catalonia when you are in São Paulo, and what do you miss about Brazil when you return to Barcelona?
—When I am in São Paulo, I miss the heads of the Palamós prawns, the peace of the Montseny mountains, and obviously my family.
When I am in Catalonia, I miss the friendliness of the people: in Brazil almost everything is possible, people are flexible, they always want to help you. In Catalonia, codes are harder to break. Everything is more rigid, it's a more bitter fruit. You know what I think? That Brazilians know how to live better than Europeans. They know how to make better use of their time, they have fun without any sense of guilt.
—In 2002 you founded the Síbaris Agency. What exactly does Síbaris do, and how has its role evolved in these more than 20 years?
—Síbaris is a communication, consulting, and public relations agency specializing in gastronomy. Our clients are restaurants, chefs, brands, and gastronomic projects. We have indeed evolved over these two decades, Latin America has opened up to the world and Brazil too, now they are proud of their culture. When I arrived, everything that came from outside was better. At Síbaris we have grown a lot, today we have almost 50 clients spread across several countries, and it is a source of daily learning.
—You have been the bridge that brought Santi Santamaria to Brazil and Alex Atala to Madrid Fusión. What role do you think someone like you — a gastronomic "cultural translator" — should play between continents?
—Yes: with Santi everything started, he was a friend of my family. With Alex I learned about Brazilian cuisine, and I had the opportunity to bring Brazil to the world. I liked this name you gave me, gastronomic cultural translator, I'll write it down!
—As a curator and presenter (Farol Santander, "Na Casa Deles"), what criteria do you use to choose what is worth telling or showing?
—It all depends on the moment, the context and the purposes. For me, it always makes sense to take actions or bring content that nourishes or transforms ideas, that provokes and enriches thoughts. We believe that only what we know exists. When you open yourself to the world, you have more knowledge and parameters to understand and be able to give value to each culture. Having this, you manage to select better, you have a wide range of registers.
—More than a decade ago you wrote about Brazil's "sweet moment", with Alex Atala and D.O.M. at the forefront. How has that moment changed until today?
—A lot. São Paulo is today a very rich and diverse gastronomic capital, with many influences from different countries, represented with great quality. Japan, Lebanon, Korea, Taiwan, Thailand and a long etc. We could say that the sweet moment continues, because we are in an emerging economy country, particularly in São Paulo. There are many opportunities. When I arrived there was a lot to do and discover, now we have advanced a lot, but the work to be done is endless.
—How do you value the moment of South American gastronomy as a whole (Brazil, Peru, Mexico, Argentina...)? Is there a shared identity or are they very different scenes from each other?
—The identities are completely different, especially Brazil because it speaks Portuguese. Logically, Mesoamerican countries have many similarities, but it is also important to recognize the gastronomic culture of each country individually. What is currently common in Latin America is the desire to open up to the world, to show the richness of each region.
—You have commented that in Europe "Brazilian cuisine is not well known" beyond caipirinha and pão de queijo. Why do you think it is so difficult for it to cross borders?
—It's difficult because it's a country the size of a continent. Minas Gerais is a state in Brazil that is the size of France. Brazil has 27 federative states with Brasília. The northeast has nothing to do with the Pantanal, which has nothing to do with the Amazon. If I had to choose one ingredient that represents the country, I would probably say it's cassava: it's eaten everywhere, it has a lot of versatility in how it's used.
—From a distance, how do you see the current state of Catalan cuisine? Does it maintain the leadership it had with El Bulli and the generation that followed it?
—El Bulli was a historic and revolutionary movement, with Ferran and Albert and the rest of the leaders like the Roca Brothers, Carme Ruscalleda, etc. From here, young students, I feel, know almost nothing about the avant-garde movement or techno-emotional cuisine. Memory is short, and that worries me. It seems that working with techniques has ceased to be a trend; here in Brazil, we are now on the other side. It's a whole process that must be lived, the years will tell... And I am sure they will demonstrate the historical footprint in universities and schools outside of Spain. But this work must be done.
—What would Barcelona export to Latin America that is not yet sufficiently present there?
—The Mediterranean, there's nothing like it.
—And what should Barcelona import from Brazil or South America?
—Its people, their good humor, their human warmth.
—What role should Barcelona play as a gastronomic bridge between Europe and Latin America, beyond congresses (Madrid Fusión, San Sebastián Gastronomika)?
—You know what? I always feel a lack of Catalan presence. We need to organize meetings, explain who we are, organize events; many autonomous communities have more presence in São Paulo than we do. And it's very curious because Barcelona is one of the main tourist destinations for Brazilians. They love Barcelona very much.
—You have spoken openly about social inequality in Brazil as the shadow of its gastronomic moment. Do you believe that cuisine can be a real tool for social change, or is it more of a showcase?
—Yes, here unfortunately social inequality is still very evident. Of course there are many initiatives in which I trust and accompany. There are the "Cuines Solidàries Comunitàries" (Community Solidarity Kitchens) which is a federal program, 2,600 kitchens participate in the country. In addition to other organizations such as Reffeitorio Gastromotiva; the Instituto Capim Santo; Gastronomia Perifèrica, etc. I strongly believe in gastronomy as a driver of social change.
“I strongly believe in gastronomy as a driver of social change”
—How do you see the near future: where do you think Brazilian cuisine will evolve in the next five years, and where should Catalan cuisine evolve?
—I believe that Brazilian cuisine is on its way to becoming increasingly aware of its own identity, less dependent on European references. Valuing Brazilian biomes: Amazon, Cerrado, Atlantic Forest, Caatinga, Pantanal and Pampa.
And Catalan cuisine must recover its spirit, as young entrepreneurial chefs say, who open small restaurants with few resources, but who are brilliant. I strongly believe in this movement of young people who defend modern cuisine while being inspired by tradition. They say less “brunch” and more “esmorzar de forquilla” (fork breakfast), we must defend customs, not letting ourselves be influenced by fashions that are very fleeting. In any case, cuisine will go where we want the country to go. We have to agree!