Bayonne, where Europe discovered the New World

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he aroma of the sea that permeates Baiona has remained unaltered since the times of discovery. Summer mornings often rise misty over the bay but, as the hours pass, the imposing profile of the Cíes Islands gradually appears on the horizon. Although it is in this protected natural paradise where the British newspaper The Guardian found the best beach in the world –Praia das Rodas– it is not necessary to leave the urban center to enjoy a good sandy area. Baiona has four kilometers of beach with six distinct idiosyncrasies: A Concheira and Os Frades are coves with fresh, choppy waters facing the Atlantic; Barbeira and A Ribeira, sheltered by the Monte Boi peninsula, are the reverse of the former; Santa Marta is a quiet, family-friendly beach with a shellfish tradition, and Ladeira, the longest in the municipality, offers dunes and calm waters protected by the bay from currents and winds. Summers in Baiona are temperate and taste of salt. Its landscapes change several times a day thanks to the magic of the tides. Here, fishing boats wake up floating on a mirror of water to be beached on the wet land in mid-morning and sail again at tea time without even having moved from their spot. It is a real pleasure to walk or cycle the six kilometers of promenade from Monterreal to La Foz at any time of day: by the sea, over the marshes, it is easy to notice how the wind keeps pace with the rising and falling water and to see how the light changes depending on the reflections of the sea.

SOUL OF THE SEA, BODY OF STONE

The old town of Baiona is a small labyrinth of stone and granite. Its low-rise buildings form narrow streets, often with arcades, capable of changing character depending on the weather. They are bright in the rain, cool and shady under the sun's rays, silent and protected on stormy and windy days, and lively and noisy during warm summer nights. On the port facade, the windows of the old fishermen's houses scan the horizon while, on their ground floors, commercial life does not stop until summer ends.

At midday or in the evening, the people of Baiona gather on the terraces of Rúa do Reloxo to enjoy an aperitif before lunch or dinner. Gastronomy is a sport that is practiced (and a lot) within the stone walls of the old town, but also in places hidden in the mountains or overlooking the sea. La Galería, Porto dos Barcos, Fonte de Zeta or Casa Rita are just a few examples of varied styles and budgets that share a common denominator: the quality of their fish and seafood. Here there is no need to resort to complicated recipes to enjoy excellent cuisine. A portion of xoubas empanada, pulpo a feira, grilled scallops or baked coruxo can be, in their simplicity, memorable. As for dessert, the artisan ice cream parlor Bico de Xeado (ice cream kiss, although pronounced it sounds like "desired kiss") is the unavoidable summer pilgrimage after any good meal.

THE MOUNTAIN AND THE SEA, FACE TO FACE

The green hills of pine and eucalyptus are the permanent frame of this seafaring postcard. Over the sea itself, occupying the homonymous peninsula, Monte Boi emerges: a forty-meter high hill that was already occupied by Celts, Phoenicians and Romans. On its summit, the profile of the medieval fortress of Monterreal –former residence of the Count of Gondomar and current Parador Nacional–, stands out, and around it runs a pleasant walk that offers impressive views of the sea and the town.

Already on the shore, the land rises up to one hundred meters, carving Monte Sansón, throne of the Virgen de la Roca. Although this fifteen-meter high granite statue holds a boat-shaped viewpoint in its hand, no view is comparable to that offered by the natural viewpoint of O Cortelliño (648 meters), at the top of A Groba mountain. Climbing to the highest point of the municipality allows one to perceive at a glance the profile of the Rías Baixas and enjoy the lushness of forests where it is not uncommon to find a family of wild horses grazing on a hillside.

WHERE EUROPE DISCOVERED AMERICA

A backdrop of green mountains, granite streets, and a peaceful bay dotted with colorful fishing boats: that was the first image of dry land sighted by the sailors of the Pinta after months crossing mountain ranges of water in the Atlantic. A storm separated them from the rest of Columbus's fleet, but the skill of their captain, Martín Alonso Pinzón, allowed them to reach dry land four days before Christopher Columbus reached Lisbon. It was March 1, 1493, and the incredible stories about the New World spread through the narrow streets of this fishing village even before the Catholic Monarchs received the news. Today, Baiona travels back in time every first of March to commemorate the event and celebrate that this small fishing town was the first place in the world where Europe met America.