When Eroica is written without an h

Eroica settles in Barcelona thanks to Miguel and Graciela, an entrepreneurial couple who have managed to make their dream a reality: uniting pasta with bicycles. All of this, under the umbrella of Eroica, an organization born in Italy that organizes gatherings with old and vintage bikes in eight different countries: Italy, Spain, South Africa, the United States, Uruguay, Japan, Holland, and Great Britain.

september 26, 2020 - 11:13

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nd so our story begins. Every morning I go to get an exquisite bread (eco and gluten-free) from the French oven located on a central street in Barcelona. For weeks, a few meters from the bakery, I had seen 'Eroica caffé' advertised with a 'coming soon' sign. I couldn't help but think of that word, 'Eroica'. But why without an 'h'? I, who love to get distracted by everything my eyes can see, couldn't quite understand the advertising motive behind that spelling 'error'.

Until that morning arrived. Before this winter cold debuted, without warning as has been normal in recent years, I was about to pick up my succulent chestnut flour bread, along with Yogui, my unconditional Jack Russell friend, and I saw that finally that enigmatic place had opened its doors. Guided by the smell of coffee coming from the place, I decided to investigate with the excuse of having my second morning coffee with milk. I pull the round wooden and metal handle of the door (which I would later discover imitates the wooden rims of old bicycles) and I realize that I have just flanked the space-time line that separates the tedious noise of the city and its cars, with the silence inside that novel place.

The first sensations reach me: an enormous space (exactly 500 square meters that had been one of the many looms of the last century and had been abandoned for the last twelve years) in the heart of the Eixample, a penetrating smell of freshly roasted coffee, bicycles throughout the premises, many of them hanging adorning the walls, old jerseys scattered around the space, posters and signs about cycling, cyclists and races, Italian ice creams, a pasta workshop, a cycling news publication on each of the tables, old Eroica clothing... And then I meet Miguel Santalices, the soul of the place who, together with Graciela Nowenstein, undertake the project of bringing 'Eroica' to Barcelona.

Miguel, with a voice that betrays his enthusiasm, reveals to me what 'Eroica' is about. 'Eroica' is an annual event that brings together thousands of vintage bicycles in eight different countries -Italy, Spain, South Africa, the United States, Uruguay, Japan, Holland, and Great Britain-, where the fundamental elements are the enjoyment of cycling from a natural perspective, the preservation and knowledge of nature and the history of the routes: a cycling tour where neither the finish line nor the time matters, where alarm clocks don't ring and stopwatches are of no interest, and where there are no winners or losers, only participants.

'Eroica' has as its motto "the beauty of fatigue." For 22 years, the purpose of experiencing cycling with the greatest naturalness has made any bike suitable for the gathering.
The Italian Giancarlo Brocci, creator of 'Eroica', which currently manages to gather 8,000 participants from all over the world in Gaiole in Chianti (Tuscany) alone -his hometown-, defined the 92 participants who attended the first meeting in 1997 as 'hunters of feelings and emotions'. The objective of this bike lover is to promote a type of cycling that generates respect and also creates bonds among participants. Brocci stands as a promoter of the preservation of important places and the salvation of the white roads of Chianti (Italy).

'Eroica' has as its motto "the beauty of fatigue". For 22 years, the purpose of experiencing cycling with the greatest naturalness means that any bike is suitable for the event, provided, of course, that it is many years old and its weight is not less than twenty-something kilos (to be clear, authentic and heavy bikes from the 70s would be among the most modern at the event). Men and women can participate. And it is that in 'Eroica' also (and I say also because there are many) women are present. Women who, in their daily work, often full of heroic deeds, gather... One of the participants even proposed 'Eroica' as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (UNESCO) and defined it as "an expression of human creativity that must be transmitted from generation to generation, must be supported by actions and safeguarded by the community in harmony with the environment and its history."

As our conversation progresses, curious urban cyclists come and go. It's no wonder, because one of the main characteristics that differentiates this place from others is that here you can enter with your bike and leave it, like a bike-daycare: an authentic and necessary luxury in this beautiful city that, unfortunately, has become the nightmare of bike lovers due to continuous thefts for decades now. And it is that, Sara and Ernest, a couple who have entered the premises corroborate it: "we are delighted to be able to leave the bicycles in here with us while we hang out."

Illustration by Francina Cortés

Miguel shows me the corners of Eroica Caffé, different environments, from the sofa area for reading or drawing, to the tables for eating or the interior patio. A place whose restoration and design is the work of architects Antonio Castro (creator of the elegant urban bicycle 'castrobike') and Ana Zubelzu. He tells me about the plants they have there, about the elevator to guarantee entry to anyone who needs it, about the reason for the colors of the bathroom walls (pink, yellow and red, which are the colors of the Giro, Tour and Vuelta jerseys), about the seven professionals who make up their current team, about their opening hours and their desire to make 'Eroica Caffé' a reference point for bicycle lovers.

In this scenario, the presentation of the 'Eroica Hispania' race will take place next November 24. It will be held, as every year, in the small town of Cenicero, La Rioja, on June 1 and 2 of next year.
Here inside there is no music, just like in the old cafes. Lovers of traditional cycling, who by contemplating the images hanging on the walls may recall the feats of the legendary Miquel Poblet, the endearing Melcior Mauri or the closer Purito Rodríguez, or cycle tourists further away from competitiveness can meet here, because the pleasure is in enjoying everything a bicycle is capable of giving us. A fact, which I find curious and romantic at the same time, is discovering that, in this era we live in where the written press is so questioned, they bet on printing a small newspaper of news about cycling and place it on the tables for the use and enjoyment of anyone who enters.

EROICA HISPANIA

The 'Eroica Hispania' race will take place, as every year, in the small town of Cenicero, La Rioja, on June 1 and 2, 2019. The spirit of 'Eroica' from Tuscany will be transferred to this region. And it is that both territories share similarities, as they are lands of vineyards and wineries, of great cultural, historical, and environmental interest. There are three routes, long, medium, and short, which in some sections coincide with the Camino de Santiago. A perfect excuse to get away from the stress we are accustomed to and delve, bike in hand, into the enjoyment of nature and the pleasure of discovering that you are not the only crazy person who wants to savor life at a different pace. As Brocci declares: "we want people to rediscover the beauty of fatigue and the emotion of conquest." Because in the end, the important thing is to participate.

Welcome to 'Eroica Caffé', this is 'Eroica'. And, of course, written in Italian: it has no 'h'.

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About the author

Francina Cortés
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