The tapas route is increasingly winding in Barcelona, with infinite options ranging from the city's epicenter to the neighborhoods, not always with equal fortune. To enjoy it in the city, you almost need an instruction manual, but here we select three infallible restaurants that allow for a complete lunch or dinner without moving from their bars or tables because their repertoire is well-rounded. One took off at the end of 2024 backed by its successful chefs and dishes (Bar Vint-i-quatre), another has only been around for a few months but has managed to attract many Barcelonans to the center (Can Bo), while Rabbit's opened a couple of years ago in the upper area but seems like it's been there forever.
An essential tapas stop at Bar Vint-i-quatre
The most desirable corner of the noble Diagonal, with Tuset, lives a new stage since the end of last year, when it took off theBar Vint-i-quatre, reformulating the best of Tapas 24, and adding sparkle. ChefCarles Abellán---who has already demonstrated everything in the art of tapas with Michelin stars and made the number 24 his brand---, appears in this new phase as a gastronomic advisor ---not a partner--- and, together with his team, proposes a "classic-style bar with small dishes to share".Its essence is contemporary traditional cuisine, because any recipe incorporates an element that breaks molds without derailing. For example, its award-winning Russian salad, in a new and dazzling version where garlic prawns crown it, replacing tuna belly.
Abellán sees in this bar ---with class but an informal air, and where you can have breakfast with a forquilla (a brutal menu of Calaf eggs and toasts with wholemeal sourdough bread), have vermouth, lunch or dinner--- the restaurant he wanted to go to and couldn't find.
Its terrace is an ideal viewpoint overlooking Diagonal, and inside there is capacity for 45 people who don't lose their smile while enjoying its cuisine, the messages on its mirrors, and Eugenio's jokes playing in the bathrooms.
Although everything can be devoured individually and there are very complete dishes, at Vint-i-quatre it is a pleasure to try all the tapas that roll on a table. Starting with the anchovy and boquerone "marriages" and continuing with a small marvel like its tomato tartare. At the helm of the kitchens daily is chef Toni Morago, who has been working with Abellán for almost two decades, but is now one of the new five owner-partners. They have swapped roles, one might say, but they continue to chew over dishes side by side. He tells us that his tartare is made with capers, shallots, chives, Perrins sauce... as if it were meat, and it looks like it. But it is pure tomato, full of flavor and freshness.
Its entire menu is tempting, from traditional tapas to small dishes. But this bar prides itself on seasonal produce, and it must be taken advantage of: its explosive artichokes with Iberian ham, which are first confited, then grilled, and finished in the oven. New customers cannot overlook the dish that Abellán launched and has been copied ad nauseam, the Iberian ham, mozzarella and truffle bikini (12 euros), ideal for sharing.
Although choosing is not easy, it is worth resorting to some past remember, such as the Barceloneta grilled squid, La Barra style, with an egg yolk sauce with Kimchi. And join the renewed craze for slow-cooked dishes through the fricandó with mushrooms, a trendy dish, which they master here.
If you go in a group and hungry, there will be an option —and capacity— to taste another of the bar's attractions, such as the cardinal's macaroni, made with fresh pasta and gratinéed with parmesan; or their version of grandma's meatballs. Or dishes in another vein, such as the Akami tuna with black butter, pine nuts and Kizami 19. And without forgetting that every day they bring fresh fish from the Barceloneta fish market.
For dessert, we only managed to try the strawberries (from Maresme) with chantilly and sheep's milk ice cream. A great finish to make you want to return to its plush green velvet sofas, and already miss its impeccable service, in these times. Wide selection of wines both by the glass and by the bottle, with a special assortment of Catalan DOs, including wines made for the house and even some international references.
Monday to Friday: from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 a.m. Weekend: from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 a.m. At Avenida Diagonal, number 520.
Rabbit's, like the old ones but new
On Ganduxer street, they have been celebrating since 2023, when chef Jordi Cunill (owner also of Café de París) invented Rabbit's, combining good product, Pilar Líbano's design, and soulful preparations.
The place captivates because it has a classic bar vibe as if it had been there for decades, but instead, you perceive the modern, fresh, and cozy touch that invites you in. Red and maroon dominate, along with vintage benches, the small bar with a street view, iron, and marble.
The first impression improves even more with the service from its waiters, who also seem to have been there forever, and the excitement is even greater when you see their dishes parade by. They are prepared from an open kitchen that leads to the central bar, and from there they are finished in front of the diner, while they salivate.
Temptations of tapas are displayed, ranging from the pillars of tapas to touches of innovation with grace. To start, there's visible ham, to be hand-sliced; the explosive Forrest Gump croquettes or the fricandó ones (a must); the nostrada 'butifarra d'ou' and Santa Pau omelet; the delicious tempura zucchini flower with 'butifarra de perol' and brie, not forgetting anchovies, 'bravas' and other well-calibrated 'hits'.
From the fish market, options follow, with closca, boasting very fresh product (from the Delta to the Rías) and at a contained price in its small dish version, up to preparations like a sautéed Santa Pau baby squid to Roman-style hake 'kokotxas'.
Although meats range from steak tartar to suckling lamb chops, or Galician blonde beef by weight, many go straight to the 'chup-chup' section. There you'll find tripe, a tremendous oxtail with Robuchon-style parmentier, and even cod snout 'a la llauna'.
But there are also quick and informal options in 'montadito' version. From the most gourmet foie, to the acclaimed Pepito or the atomic 'Mollete guarro de chistorra' (thus baptized by the house). Traditional desserts are not lacking, with a certain hegemony of 'torrija' with chocolate ice cream.
Although it gets crowded during peak hours, it stands out for its uninterrupted kitchen from 1:00 PM to 12:00 AM. On Ganduxer street, number 16.
Can Bo, a small miracle in the heart of the city
The new stage of the renovated and iconicHotel Grand Central, in the middle ofVia Laietana and whose building was home to Francesc Cambó, has been a gastronomic delight in Ciutat Vella. But the restaurantCan Bo---in a play on words in memory of Cambó and in allusion to providing good food--- it offers an independent entrance. And it wants Barcelonans to take it as local territory, as worthy of an incursion into the center. It opened less than half a year ago, as a commitment to proximity cuisine with classic Spanish recipes and nods to Italy, but it stands out for itspersonality, which has been hatching as its menu expanded during the winter.
Its consulting chef is Oliver Peña ---with a recent Michelin star for the Teatro Kitchen Bar project---, while Lorenzo Cavazzoni is the hotel's executive chef. Together they have created tapas and small dishes for sharing, which incorporate modern and distinctive touches.
The menu raised ambitions a few weeks ago with dishes such as Lorenzo's fresh tagliatelle with oxtail ragu, where the shredded meat seems to jump for joy on the palate. And in season, it has stood out with the Prat artichoke cacio e pepe, the result of the Catalan-Italian fusion of Peña and Cavazzoni. The Italian chef tells us that this sin is his own dish, inspired by the years he worked in Rome: after frying the vegetable, he finishes it with pecorino cheese, pepper, and lemon zest. Mmmm.
In that section of novelties, we discovered the daring veal tongue, green sauce and pickles, a bomb of contrasts. The tongue is prepared at a low temperature but served at room temperature with a parsley, vinegar and anchovy sauce, based on an old recipe from his grandmother. Crystal bread croutons and homemade pickles provide textures and freshness. And among the meats, the matured picanha carpaccio shines for its personality. After maturation, the national black angus is cut into slices, with a power that will captivate the most carnivorous.
In the fish section, there is room for well-represented tradition, such as the delicious monkfish suquet with clams, where the monkfish is cut into cubes to share in a small casserole and whose sauce is classic, with sweet paprika and textured with potato.
But there are also other ideal dishes for a group table eager to taste. Like the Salpicón de pez limón (lemon fish salad), which in this Mediterranean version of ceviche changes lime for Jerez vinegar, adds local vegetables (red pepper and tender onion) and incorporates spicy chili oil and is finished with "quicos" (corn nuts) and chips to give it a crunchy touch. Or the classic Russian salad that they prepare daily with hand-cut steamed vegetables, potato that does not touch the fridge before being well seasoned with mayonnaise, and a good tuna belly.
It also stands out for its cheese menu, for its combinations of tapas paired with a glass of wine, and for an extensive wine cellar (around 150 references, especially from the territory), which allows them to offer different proposals by the glass each month.
Open kitchen from: 12:30 to 16:00 and from 19:00 to 22:30, and cold dishes between those hours. At Via Laietana, number 30.
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