Normal has been open for barely a month and a half, drawing the attention of many curious people who want to see how the Rocas approach this intermediate gastronomic step. It will not be surprising to learn that this project had been brewing for some time and it was not until after the first part of the pandemic that it began to take shape. Joaquín Cufré, head of the dining room, introduces the experience in this very accurate way: "That Normal would be a place to enjoy spoon, fork, and knife dishes, as well as tasty stews, had been in the minds of the Roca brothers for a long time."
In essence, Normal seeks to create a circle of coherence around recognizable dishes not only by their recipe but also by their ingredients. From simplicity and respect, giving this everydayness a new approach. Everything in Normal seeks to extol the local: from the Pantaleu ceramics from Palau Sator, the recovery design by Andreu Carulla, or the vegetables from Terra Endins, the project that El Celler is implementing in the Masia to gradually supply all the restaurants. Even the chamomile comes from Mas Marroch! This is about relying on the territory to bring it to the table in a closer way, leaving the flourishes and concept in the hands of El Celler.
If Joaquín Cufré manages the dining room, the kitchen is led by the very young Eli Nolla, who, although backed by the brothers, has a position where she receives more visibility and responsibility, hard-earned. "The menu is made with the Rocas," explains Nolla, "with the idea that as we get going, the team will take more control and be able to propose the introduction of one or two weekly dishes according to the season, with the idea of taking advantage of the product when it is at its best."
Enthusiasm is perceived at this stage. Nolla assures that "Normal would be the restaurant I would have opened"; Cufré states that "after five years at El Celler, this project in Girona seduced me so much that I applied to be part of the team" and Joël Calsina (sommelier) smiles when he explains that "the wines that Josep has chosen come from his heart." Enthusiasm for a project that is well-tied, coherent, and works with a very correct average ticket: between 50 and 70 euros. The location, in the heart of Girona's old town, is another plus.
The menu presents another "normal" structure: starters, first courses, and main courses. Short and concise, all the dishes on it are appetizing: shrimp fritter with white shrimp (Pitu's favorite dish), ham croquette made with sheep's milk, the open omelet in homage to Sacha, or the white eggplant (the vegetable foie of Bages!) in tempura with a sweet and sour sauce. The lluerna in adobo or the mackerel with ajoblanco are good options to order for sharing. The dish that will undoubtedly be the star is the pigeon rice, pure creamy succulence in a more than fair portion.
The wine cellar options already seem less normal, but the adjective "normal" applies to Josep Roca's criterion for choosing those 380 references that will surely go in crescendo: bringing together the greatness of the farmer and the small winemaker in a desire to collect all the wines from the villages of the D.O. Empordà that vinify (around 25). This compendium is joined by references from Beaune, reflecting Pitu's appreciation for Burgundy, and there are also exponents from Jerez, Riesling, and Priorat. A wine cellar that reflects that intimate care that the Rocas have imprinted on making Normal an event.
It was normal for this intermediate step to become a reality. Thus, we can enjoy the genius of the Rocas and their team in their highest expression at the Celler or even travel through memory and taste the iconic dishes of this starred trio. Normal will be a recurrent, a format to repeat more often and, with this new hit on the gastronomic map, Girona gains visibility among the local public and the whole world.