The new trajectory of the Peruvian restaurant Leche de Tigre in Sant Gervasi

It was not a move but a springboard jump. Leche de Tigre had been operating for four years in Gràcia, showcasing a Peruvian recipe book enriched from its cradle by overseas influences, when a few months ago it began a new phase in the upper area of Barcelona, in the Sant Gervasi neighborhood. From a bar to a stylish and comfortable restaurant. And more ambitious.

The concept by José Manuel von Bischoffshausen and Alexis Mastrokalos has aimed to fly to the premium segment, they define, also giving prominence to high-end cocktail making. The table experience is aided by the team's pedagogy to transmit the history, ingredients, and character of each dish, with which they aspire to be a benchmark in Barcelona.

And it is that the cuisine of Dieter Westphalen, who "reinvents and updates traditional Peruvian dishes," giving "color, texture, and flavor to the iconic ceviches, causas, duck rice, or cinco leches," he illustrates, is a gastronomic and emotional journey.

Nikkei cuisine, chifa (fused with Chinese), criolla, babiche (with Italian), and novoandina (which rescues indigenous ingredients) as well as regional cuisines are part of Peru's daily catalog of flavors, which Westphalen transmits with joy in the Catalan capital. And since not all local diners know the scope and dimension of ingredients such as ají amarillo, palta, chicharrón, sillao, or camote, the menu includes a glossary-guide.

To whet the appetite or as a grand finale, depending on individual rituals, cocktails are suggested that should be mandatory to overcome the laziness of those who dive headfirst into the wine list. Their concoctions shine due to the maceration with pisco, they boast, and we can attest to the difficulty of choosing between their more classic repertoire and their signature creations. Their version of Bloody Mary with 14 Inkas vodka, leche de tigre, clamato, sillao, cane honey, and togarashi salt is irresistible.

The unique space, with a more informal area of high tables in front of the kitchen and a more relaxed dining room at the back, is enjoyed in a more relaxed atmosphere at midday (with a meritorious weekday menu for 16.90 euros) and more elegant at dinner. Its menu is topped with several ceviches that compete in the eyes of the diner and require prescription. We tried the Apaltado (wild sea bass, octopus, classic tiger's milk, avocado, capers, limo chili, crispy chullpe corn, corn, sweet potato puree), a delight, balanced, refreshing and rich in textures, without excessive citrus.

Powerful Aji de Gallina

The menu offers enough dishes to return and continue the immersion: Classic Anticuchos, lomo saltado, nikkei surf and turf, appetizing woks…

For dessert, you have to make room for their Crema volteada (Peruvian cinnamon and caramel flan) or the explosive Cinco leches (cake, evaporated milk, condensed milk, whole milk, coconut milk, heavy cream, Cartavio rum, almond chips).

The average à la carte ticket is around 45 to 60 euros, depending on wine and appetite.