In the maelstrom of Barcelona openings, a place stands out that, beyond its gastronomic proposal, has achieved something almost unprecedented in the city: people queuing for more than forty minutes to try unknown recipes.
The new place is called Akiro, a fast-good with dishes by Peruvian chef Luis Arévalo, which has earned a place among those spaces where patience is put to the test, but also where waiting is part of the experience. Its cuisine bets on interesting combinations, with hand rolls and nigiris that, like the eel with cocoa, stand out for their originality. But, beyond the menu, what really surprises are the queues that form, especially at night.
In Barcelona, it is not common to see endless queues for food. We are not like in Madrid (where Akiro is also bursting) nor like in Kyoto or Busan, where you take a ticket upon arrival and can go for a walk until a message on your mobile notifies you that you already have a table.
Perhaps the neighborhood has something to do with it: on the same Mallorca street, Cerveseria Catalana is another hotspot where queues are almost part of the ritual. Massive recommendations on international applications have a lot to do with it. These apps also explain the devotion to Jon Cake, another classic of contemporary waiting, now with a third location that may decongest the original. Their cheesecakes have almost devoted followers, and people can stand in line for 45 minutes without losing their smile.
We are not like in Madrid (where Akiro is also bursting) nor like in Kyoto or Busan, where you take a ticket upon arrival and can go for a walk until a message on your mobile notifies you that you already have a table.
According to the study Rethinking Queue Design in Restaurants, published in the Journal of Gastronomy and Tourism, queuing can be a fundamental part of a gastronomic visit. The researchers analyzed the case of NOMA's pop-up burger joint in Copenhagen, where waiting in line, rather than an obstacle, became the central axis of the experience. This wait, they argue, helped create more informal interactions between staff and customers, in addition to generating an anticipation that made the first bite taste even better.
Perhaps that's why the psychology of waiting plays an important role. If a restaurant has a queue, we instinctively think it must be good, which further reinforces its reputation. Or maybe we simply fall into FOMO (Fear of Missing Out), that fear of missing out on something if we don't do the same as others.
One cannot forget the Sour Grapes effect, inspired by the documentary that shows how tycoons who had paid a fortune for centuries-old wine bottles (which later turned out to be fake) dared not admit they tasted strange. After all, who would dare to criticize a restaurant after waiting an hour at the door?
One of the most curious stories is that of Nakeima in Madrid. The restaurant is known for a strict queue: only the first 20 people who have lined up enter (for every 4 people dining, there must be 1 in the queue). According to urban legend, there are diners who subcontract people to queue for them, and it seems that this service is not poorly paid.
And then there are those who have managed to monetize the wait, like StreetXO, where queuing is almost part of the menu. There, the cocktail menu goes directly to the queue, and drinks are served while waiting, added to the final bill. A drink in hand and people are already chatting, almost like before a Bruce Springsteen concert, but with a Castilian-Oriental fusion.
In Barcelona, however, the trend is to avoid physical queues and opt for more organized systems. At Paradiso, for example, you have to sign up for the virtual queue via a QR code at the entrance. Akiro has also opted for a similar but more vintage formula: they manually write down your phone number and call you when it's your turn. And here's a trick: if there are two of you, better than three; if there are three, better than one. Gastronomy in Tetris mode.
The establishments that are not yet signing up for these systems are the city's classics, those that fly over trends and FOMOs. In places like El Xampanyet or Ramen-Ya Hiro, patience has its reward, because here the wait is not only worth it, but it becomes part of the charm. Because yes, time is gold, but sometimes, a good ramen or good anchovies are too.