Exactly one year ago, Sara Valls landed in Barcelona with the Xeixa - Casa de Menjars (Carabassa, 7) project, a restaurant located in the heart of Ciutat Vella that proposes a return to Mediterranean grilled cuisine, using ancestral techniques such as the maturation of meats and fish. The Balearic influence of the proposal was evident, with dishes such as the "ensalada payesa" and the name of the establishment itself, which pays homage to a traditional variety of wheat from the Balearic Islands.
In Formentera, Sara Valls had already initiated a line of extreme proximity, offering a memorable menu with ingredients sourced from within a 12 km radius of the island. In Barcelona, this philosophy translates into the preparation of preserves from seasonal ingredients and the use of local products such as alpine asparagus or caviar from Vall d'Aran. Her proposal, however, constantly evolves, with dishes such as chickpeas stewed with octopus and homemade pickled tuna, demonstrating her commitment to the preservation of tradition and products that respect the ecosystem. We spoke with her to learn more about this circular project, unique in the city.
--- In Xeixa, among other things, you bet on maturation, pickling, and preserves. What does the preservation of these ancient techniques mean to you?
--- For me, it is a form of direct connection with our ancestors, of preserving popular tradition and connecting with the purest essence of Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine. I believe these techniques connect both diners and us as we cook them.
--- Why are you interested in recovering ancient recipes that have fallen into oblivion?
--- Recovering recipes is a way to prevent memory from being lost, a way to dialogue with the past and, why not, an act of cultural resistance. We must reclaim culture, and gastronomic culture is the most important thing for us.
--- What philosophy do you follow when identifying and selecting the small producers you collaborate with? Is it just about quality, or is there also a commitment to human values and the territory?
--- The initial philosophy was for them to be small producers, with respect for the environment and people, and as local as possible. However, we have realized that, to find certain products, sometimes we must look further afield. Even so, it is always about everything you mention and more: quality, values, and territory, along with strengthening the circular economy.
Recovering recipes is a way to prevent memory from being lost, a way to dialogue with the past and, why not, an act of cultural resistance. Sara Valls--- In a world where restoration is often dominated by men, Xeixa is led by three women. What does this female perspective bring to the project?
--- The truth is that, for me, men and women have always been equal and have contributed similar perspectives; it depends more on the person than on the gender. Even so, a little female power always comes in handy.
--- You have chosen to close on weekends, a decision that goes against industry logic. Why?
--- During the week, we are in the restaurant all day, and doing it this way is the only way to enjoy quality of life and have some time for family. This business is conceived as a lifestyle and a long-term project.
--- Xeixa is also a gastro-cultural space. Why is it important to fuse gastronomy with other forms of artistic expression?
--- Besides the fact that we love art in all its expressions, it never hurts to join forces for a good cause. That's why we promote cultural actions of all kinds in our gastro-social-cultural room, where culture and gastronomy fight for a better world. Soon we will hold our first charity dinner to send children to school.
--- You have also managed to build a loyal local clientele in Ciutat Vella, a neighborhood often dominated by tourism. How do you build and maintain a community of diners in such a changing environment?
--- The truth is that our diners are increasingly diverse. We started with a very local clientele, but now word of mouth has reached many different countries. We love this diversity because it enriches daily life. Evidently, many locals still come, and the vast majority return.
--- Do you think it's possible to reconquer the neighborhood?
--- We would love to, but it's an issue that doesn't depend solely on us. The first thing that should return are the traditional shops: grocery stores, butcher shops, fish markets, greengrocers... You just have to take a walk around the neighborhood to realize that we should have acted a long time ago. But I think there is still hope.
--- What changes or novelties are you planning for Xeixa in the coming months?
--- Some changes, mainly in the dishes, and a more reduced and affordable tasting menu. But you'll have to come to the restaurant to discover it (Sara Valls laughs).