IN THE STREAM

Return to the Boqueria

The pandemic recovers for Barcelona residents the historic market of La Rambla after years of tourist crowds

may 01, 2021 - 00:13

La Boqueria has once again become a market in this last year of covid. Because until then it had become a kind of theme park for tourists where what abounded most were juices, containers of cut fruit, and trays of fried foods, skewers, and other prepared dishes. The virus has put an end to the expansion of this invasive species that was colonizing the market, which had turned its back on its usual clientele and was dedicating itself body and soul to tourism.

Today, as a consequence of the pandemic and its effects on the tourism industry, one can return to La Boqueria and enjoy its offer of fresh products. One can even go with a shopping cart without a legion of curious people blocking the way with their selfies and leisurely pace. I was able to confirm this again this very week. It even felt exciting. The situation had become such that at one point, access for tourist groups had to be regulated, as the invasion became unsustainable.

I would not want these lines to be interpreted as a blaming criticism of either the merchants or the tourists. I am the first person who, when traveling, likes to visit markets. But we must recognize that the phenomenon of La Boqueria was getting out of hand and beginning to clone itself in other facilities in the city, such as the markets of Sant Antoni and Santa Caterina. One cannot lay the blame on the merchants because they simply adapted to new business lines favored by tourist demand. Nor on the visitors, attracted by a market with 180 years of history at the foot of La Rambla, another space, by the way, that this last year is offering us an unusual image, also free of tourists.

 la Boqueria

Barcelonans have reconquered the historic market.

La Boqueria is the market par excellence of Barcelona, but it has long ceased to be a market whose offer was aimed at local customers. It became more of a global market aimed at another type of clientele. I will not be the one to champion an anti-tourism discourse. On the contrary, Barcelona's economy owes a lot to tourists since the great Olympic boom. It is another matter that, like all activities, it must be subject to a certain regulation. In this sense, it must be the Administration that utters a mea culpa, for continuous decisions over the years in which a showcase strategy has prevailed in the city center, which now also impacts La Boqueria.

Tourism has been and will again be key to the city's economy, but in this crisis, the sector has shown its feet of clay when facing major cyclical crises like a pandemic. It's similar to what has happened to the media with advertising, their main source of income until the advent of the Internet.

It should also be noted that fresh markets, which have also been impacted by the crisis, have resisted much better than other commercial sectors. Firstly, because most traders have been able to maintain activity, and also due to customer behavior. According to data from the Institut Municipal de Mercats, during 2020, about 45 million people visited Barcelona's markets, compared to over 60 million in 2019. However, this loss in footfall has been more than offset by a greater increase in sales and because online purchases have multiplied by 10. That is, people have left home less, but when they have gone to the market, they have bought more.

 la Boqueria

One of the fish stalls at La Boqueria.

La Boqueria, due to its uniqueness, has had some additional difficulties compared to other markets, but has generally resisted. Let's make good on the idea that crises generate opportunities and correct our course now that we've seen the wolf's ears. An ordinance for La Boqueria should be agreed upon that limits some activities and at the same time protects the market from the adversities of economic cycles. I understand that there are already some proposals in this regard. It's not about giving up the benefits of tourism, but rather deciding if we want a Boqueria that builds loyalty among both global and local audiences, or a market dedicated to juices and fried foods. I prefer the former.

 la Boqueria

The market must find a balance to satisfy local customers without giving up its appeal to tourists.

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About the author

Xavi Casinos
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