The arrival of the Grand Hyatt brand in Barcelona, giving a new (and better) life to the iconic hotel that was born with the name Princesa Sofía (1975) and which shortly before the pandemic was relaunched as Sofía, has also brought gastronomic joys. The American brand has incorporated its own touches to the renovated and luxurious hotel, but above all it has rethought the restaurant offering, which will be presented little by little. In autumn, Dani García's Leña will arrive, but for now, Maymanta, by chef Omar Malpartida, has just lifted the curtain, and in a few days it has already become a must-visit for many Peruvian gastronomy addicts.
The city is adding more and more offerings in this regard, but the new restaurant starts with the advantage of having an older 'brother' in Ibiza with the same name, which has allowed it to take off with maturity and a well-rounded offering in the Catalan capital.
Maymanta's formula stands out from the competition by combining design, art, passion for good service, cocktails, wine, music, and "the best of fresh Peruvian produce with local proximity products," they summarize. Malpartida has paved the way with other restaurants in Madrid and Menorca, and in Barcelona he arrives in style, crowning the top floor of the Grand Hyatt and surrounded by an impressive panoramic terrace that will undoubtedly be a hit this summer.
The chef, who continuously travels to his country to import flavors, techniques, and ideas that he fuses with Mediterranean cuisine, exhibits in his Barcelona debut impeccable presentations, top-quality produce treated with great care, dishes with personality, and an environment that propels his cuisine and delights the other senses.
The interior design of the spectacular restaurant is signed – like so many prominent venues in Barcelona – by Futur2. It fuses some traditional elements of Catalonia with those of Peruvian culture. The green and orange of its jungle add an exuberant but not excessive touch to the space, which is very cozy and bright. Also noteworthy are its handmade tableware, in earthy tones that evoke the three Peruvian regions, and its recycled lamps.
But the essential, what arrives at the table, lives up to the scenery. Ingredients imported directly from the Amazon, the Andes, and the Pacific Sea marry with fresh fish and local vegetables, with a technique and sensibility that transcend in each preparation.
70% of the sea on Maymanta's menu
The letter (with 70% of the sea) would deserve several visits, but the service has in-depth knowledge of the preparations and guides the diner in theflavors and particularities of each dish. Among thetapas, highlights thecorn pancake (they are reminiscent of Andalusian ones, although here they are served very thin) with fried dehydrated shrimp, false olive oil caviar, guacamole mousse, and red shrimp tartare, a delicately served little jewel.
It's not easy to choose ceviche, with a bar dedicated to the matter. We tried the criollo, based on very fresh sea bass, tiger's milk of yellow ají or rocotos, onion, the right touch of cilantro, cancha, choclo, and creamy sweet potato. Balanced and delicious, and with the bonus of crispy calamari that add textures.
From the Grills and Roasts section, the Octopus, mole and avocado deserves to be highlighted. A tentacle is served with a specifically designed plate and anticuchera sauce, with a delicious grilled avocado and mole made from cocoa. A fabulous composition.
From the Wok section, we tried the 'Lomo saltado', with sirloin stir-fried in a wok, meat glace, smoked onion and tomatoes, tatemado yellow ají, crispy Peruvian yellow potato, and rice with choclo in a separate bowl. Perfectly cooked meat and delicious vegetables, though without as much sparkle as the rest of the menu.
Desserts and drinks
The menu naturally includes nikkei tiradito, causa limeña, pollo canga, lomo anticucho… and even grilled ribeye with 21 days of maturation; or specialties like the Duck Skillet for two people. Also noteworthy is a Marine bar, with crustaceans and fish by weight and in various cuts.
The feast can be concluded with one of their four desserts. The lúcuma Panacotta –a Peruvian fruit– (with coffee syrup, crispy rice pudding, and chocolate) is very competitive with the "Apicaronada" Torrija (with pumpkin brioche, five types of milk, fig-based honey, passion fruit paper, and pistachio ice cream –sometimes fig–).
The drinks deserve a special mention. Its bar delves into the best of Peruvian distillery. Gins, piscos, vodkas, and whiskies made with Peruvian ingredients are its essence. The piscos macerated with fruits and spices, with which many start (or pair) their lunch or dinner, shine. But there are also about 80 references of wines from all over the world.
The final price varies greatly depending on appetite and choices. But (except for tapas) most dishes range between 20 and 30 euros, doing justice to the product and the space. It should be noted that it opens every day and with XXL hours, although with a reduced menu in the afternoon.
Maymanta. Grand Hyatt Hotel
Pl. Piux XII, 4 08028 Barcelona Tel.: 614 35 71 87
Daily from 12:30 to 24:00, except Fridays and Saturdays until 1:30 AM
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