Time after the opening in Barcelona of the awaited Leña by chef Dani García, the restaurant continues to be almost daily full, demonstrating that the proposal meets expectations and word-of-mouth is a great ally. Located on the street level of the brand new Grand Hyatt Barcelona, the new steak house with a Catalan flavor has managed to break the ice among those who are reluctant to cross the doors of a hotel to go eat or dine, or those who had not approached the venue that once housed the famous Princesa Sofía hotel for years.
Precisely, Barça players, among other popular figures, have returned to the establishment, where the cuisine competes with the interior design in what is already one of the most spectacular restaurants in the Catalan capital. It is an ideal place both to see and be seen in society, and to find intimacy behind its successful private rooms (up to 14 people) that are camouflaged with large side curtains.
The chef already announced: "We want Leña to burn in Barcelona," during his acclaimed debut in December, with the strength of the experience provided by his other locations in Marbella, Madrid, and Dubai, while also preparing launches in Mallorca and Miami.
Although the concept, fire, grill, and premium meat, faces increasing competition in Barcelona, Leña has personality and a lot of technique that make a difference. It should not be forgotten that García renounced his three Michelin stars in 2019 at his eponymous restaurant in Marbella, although he adds three more between his two Smoked Room, the jewel of the brands of the growing Dani García Group, which he propelled with two partners.
Seven cuts in plain sight
Seven different cuts ofmeat displayed in a showcase, international-inspired dishes with influences from Lebanon, Italy, Mexico, Japan, and Austria, grilled vegetables, "classic recipes executed with high precision" and awink to Catalan cuisinethey define it. Thus, although theletter it has the infallible repertoire of the brand, the chef wants to show his respect to theterritory and includes specific products or preparations such as the sea and mountain ofespardenyesgrilled and pig's feet; or grilled red Palamós shrimp; or grilled Perol sausage with Maresme peas or even Perol sausage croquettes.
But first of all, we must talk about its interior design, which of course breaks with the rest of the hotel and creates a dark setting, where fire is the king element. A large central bar greets the customer, where its cocktail bar stands out. Although the diners' eyes will quickly go to the meat display or to the open kitchen on one side, which adds avant-garde to the art of traditional grilling.
Flames and charcoal
With stone and wood as essential materials, they want to evoke the primitive and primary, while thecoal, flames and smokethey are as present in its set design as in the dishes. There are evocations of burning logs, imitations of flames with dramatic reflections and colors that already induce the diner to get into modecarnivore, although the letter can easily please avegetarian. Because coal is also an ally of the garden.That design, where black and amber ally with energy, makes the space work both for eating at noon, in a more informal atmosphere with natural light entering through its windows, and at night. Because at dinner time is when the room is darker, more intimate and also more rogue. At those hours, music takes center stage ---which may not appeal to all audiences, or even distract a little from the dishes--- and after desserts, it seems natural to move on to drinks. There is a DJ from Wednesday to Saturday.
That atmosphere contributes to its immersive adventure proposal, where the public will be surprised by the presentations, some flavors or the possibility of even choosing the razor-sharp meat knife they prefer to eat with.
The menu is structured in Vegetables, among which, by merit and recommendation, the delicious charcoal-roasted confit leek (with truffled Iberian pork mortadella, gribiche and hazelnuts) and the addictive ---one would order it on every visit--- grilled Malaga avocado with cilantro pesto and vegetable salpicon with feta cheese have already become famous.
Bestselling Burgers
Among the tickets stands out as an experience the sirloin steak tartare prepared at the table with grated foie gras. The Catalan touch is given by the cannelloni a la catalana or the aforementioned croquettes (ideal for sharing, with one or two pieces being enough if you want to save room for the meats). And they even dare with grilled veal sweetbreads with rancid wine.The menu features an atomic section From the pig to its gait, which covers everything from pâté to Iberian sobrasada with a thousand to blood sausage. And it bets heavily on yakipinchos with different small cuts and preparations with chicken.
There is space for the Mediterranean grilled, from grilled open langoustines to Sepionetas with basil and Iberian ham, or sea bass matured for three days, among others. But without a doubt, the house's strong dishes are the meats, for which space must be left, whether to taste an individual piece or the large cuts for sharing.
Few can resist an foray into the burger that gave meaning to everything, which integrates two baby burgers ideal for sharing, with Pretzel bread, havarti cheese and the prodigious and patented bull sauce, which makes up a version of the one served in its three-star restaurant. And here it is devoured for 22 euros.
Choosing meat…
The deck ofmeats it comes out punctually from the embers (braised oxtail, breaded steak…), but with All in red, literally all the meat is thrown on the grill. There isfive large cuts to share,among which the choice can be difficult. The bestsellers are already thespecial DG chop(1kg. of clandestine old cow chop with 45 days of maturation) and theVeal Porter House(1kg. of young veal T-bone, loin painted with miso and sirloin) served impeccably deboned and sliced, framed by the bone. The meat is a delight, with all the flavor of the fire and at the perfect point of juiciness.
With the section All the wood on the grill, individual cuts are introduced, such as veal sirloin, Wagyu A5 loin, or Iberian "pluma". And any grilled dish has several side dishes (from gratinéed and truffled onion to marinated vegetables) and sauces to taste.
Sweet ending
Among the desserts, without detracting from the rest, you absolutely must try the Rose Cake (from my mamma), house stamp, with two scoops of toasted butter ice cream. It is served in a small bowl, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. But it is a large dessert to share between at least two people and of which only fifty are made per day, so it is advisable to reserve it upon arrival.
The final ticket, with most starters from 16 euros (and even pintxos and empanadas below) and with main courses between 24 and 70 euros per person, can be very variable depending also on wines and desserts. But Leña, which opens daily except Mondays for lunches and dinners, also offers a more reduced menu to eat at the bar. As well as a brunch on weekends from 11:00 to 12:30, where eggs and their burgers are not missing, for 45 euros (with infusions, juices and coffees).
It is worth highlighting the great improvement that the place has experienced in a few weeks in terms of service, the great difficulty of the sector at the moment and which complicates large openings. Now they have more established staff who (in general) ensure an experience in line with the gastronomy and good advice on wines.
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