From the owners of Casa Amàlia in Barcelona: Barra Cal Pla

The binomial formed by restaurants and markets, when only a few steps separate them, is a winning bet if the restaurateur sources locally. As Casa Amàlia has been doing for four years in Barcelona, when partners Jordi Castán and Sergi Suaña gave new life to this classic next to the Concepció market. After succeeding with their revision of Catalan and ultra-local cuisine, they have now naturally given it a 'little brother': Cal Pla, right next door
(Pla passage, 6).

Expanding business horizons towards bars with 'caliu' is a clear trend in the city, where wineries and bars are resurrected everywhere. The charm of Cal Pla is that it is a 1965 bar (Bar Pla) with roots in the Dreta de l'Eixample neighborhood, whose last owner has just retired, leaving the small establishment in good hands. And that the passion that Castán and Suaña have poured into it to give it continuity is not feigned, but sincere.

Everything you can eat at Barra Cal Pla, which defines itself as a "contemporary market bar," is very delicious. But the partners have not settled for satisfying the diner's palate, but aspire to a more emotional bond. They want to preserve the always-present bar that one has next to home, work, or the market and to which one cannot resist an incursion. Be it for breakfast, vermouth, lunch, or dinner, and of course as a meeting point. The new stage does not disappoint, backed by the gastronomic direction of Gabriel Sunyer, and cuisine made in the establishment itself.

Open every day for the neighborhood

Because in the cozy bar they barely close the blinds (Monday to Saturday, from 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Sundays, from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.) except to sleep. So, the hustle and bustle of workers and neighbors is frequent early in the morning, enjoying cold sandwiches of cured meats whose origin (supplier or store) is noted on the menu, just as in Casa Amàlia; also hot ones (from classics to temptations like the Bikini of Astorga cured beef, brie, and truffle) or sweet pleasures like the ensaimada from Sauleda pastry shop, or the Pain au Chocolat from Éric&Benjamin, always referenced.

The gluttony of the fork breakfast or midday meal is already a serious matter, because from 9:00h their stew of the day is already available, which could be 'capipota', or pork cheeks, a homemade fricandó or meatballs with cuttlefish, at the fixed price of 9 euros. And it is from 12:00h when their display case dazzles with tortillas, esqueixadas and other attractions that vary according to the market and its seasonal offer.

Appetizers for a good vermouth range from gildas to a selection of canned goods, daily.

Its well-regarded menu abounds with cold dishes, as befits a small establishment without a smoke vent. Oysters or acorn-fed ham are not lacking as delicacies, but if one dish has already become a 'legend' in the area, it is their version of the Russian Salad featuring red shrimp, which crowns it and which the two partners vehemently define as "the best in Barcelona". It is not a run-of-the-mill salad, but a happy alliance of potato with oil in two textures that they prepare with the head and shell of the shrimp. The result is addictive (half portion, €7 and full, €12.5). The same goes for the organic chicken croquette inside a Tudela lettuce heart – a fabulous version of a Caesar salad – at 4 euros per round bite.

One must also prescribe the Roasted Eggplant, with straciatella, chopped mint and green chili (5 euros for half a portion), and indulge in the Tuna Tartare, which here soars high with ajoblanco.

Bar to share

The synergy with its restaurant next door, and an oven, foster a stimulating selection of hot dishes, with hits like the atomic torreznos – Cal Pla oven-baked bacon – cooked at a low temperature, or the Candied artichoke heart with cured cheese cream and egg yolk, a conjunction of textures and flavors that will make your eyes roll.

We did not try grandma's cannelloni (a mythical dish from the Casa Amàlia group), which never fails, nor the Cardinal's macaroni that now appears in so many establishments... But we did try the powerful Veal fricandó and mushroom cream toast (9 euros), recognizable flavors with gastronomic memory, in an informal format. It is appreciated that, despite the relaxed format, the quality standard of the mother house is maintained. And it is advisable to also pay attention to their daily suggestions board, which shapes the best product from the annexed market, without artifice.

Another infallible is to finish the foray with their creamy Casa Amàlia 1950 Cheesecake, although chocolate lovers will find a proposal of equal standing to debate with.

In the cellar, they display a solid selection of wines from Catalan DOs but also from the rest of Spain, as well as cavas, which are showcased in their refrigerators; without missing the repertoire of Reus vermouths that have raised the bar for weekend lunchtimes in the neighborhood.

In general, their Mediterranean cuisine invites sharing, enjoying among friends or family, trying a bit of everything. The torrid summer prevents these days from enjoying their charming terrace in a quiet passage, but the air-conditioned interior is fantastic in size also for small group events if one wants to reserve their high tables. The walls of the space exude history, but they have achieved a stylish and characterful renovation, where it is easy to feel comfortable.

However, the jewel in the crown is its spectacular bar, which takes up most of the space, becoming the epicenter of the hustle and bustle of tapas and chatter with the waiters. Because Suaña and Castán want short distances, to know the names of the clients. Or for them to know that they will always find Isabel's smile and wise advice in the dining room, seasoned in the group, empathetic and dedicated to the diner.