Flavor scientists

12 may of 2025 at 20:43h

Not all those who cook today come from hospitality schools. Some arrive from laboratories, among microscopes, test tubes, and cell cultures. Marine biologists, microbiologists, chemists… People who have dissected life before cooking it, who carry an insatiable curiosity and a different way of thinking. When they touch an ingredient, they don't just see flavor or texture. They see cycles, ecosystems, connections. They see life.

"Biologists understand life from a microscopic and macroscopic point of view, and many of the processes that occur in a laboratory also happen in a kitchen or at a bar," explains Marc Álvarez, a biologist by training and co-founder of SIPS, the Barcelona bar that tops the lists of the best in the world. His creative process does not start from trial and error, but from a well-traced hypothesis, as if each cocktail were a thesis: ideas, experiments, results, conclusions. A scientific mind at the service of pleasure.

Another example of this symbiosis is Pachi Rodríguez, who studied reverse engineering before venturing into the kitchen. The chef of the Âme restaurant approaches dishes as if they were problems to solve: with analytical thinking, clarity, and defined objectives. "I have an idea of flavor or texture and I apply the same process I followed as a chemist: I start from the final result and work backward, looking for solutions to get there." For him, cooking is a form of methodological investment; a recipe turned into a challenge.

Pachi Rodríguez at the Âme restaurant.

From the Estimar restaurant, marine scientist Arnau Subías wants diners to look at the product from another perspective. His knowledge of marine cycles, closed seasons, and species adds layers of meaning to both the kitchen and front-of-house teams. "It's about conveying why a sea urchin cannot be served in July, what role it plays within the ecosystem, what implications catching it has." Currently, he is also working on an encyclopedia of the sea, a project halfway between the Bullinian method and scientific romanticism.

That same encyclopedic interest runs through the career of Máximo Cabrera, chef of Fronda Pasaje, who began studying microbiology before moving into the kitchen. Creator of Estudio Crudo, he speaks of his craft as one speaks of cosmology: a universe made of vectors where physics, chemistry, sociology, and history converge. "I believe that anyone who has studied biology is, in some way, fascinated by life. And what makes it possible? Precisely, the act of eating."

At Fronda Pasaje, Máximo Cabrera looks to microbiology and history.

Also with microbiology as a starting point, Jordi Artal, the soul of Cinc Sentits, began among test tubes and Petri dishes, until one day he pressed the reset button and changed course: first in Silicon Valley, immersed in the world of dotcoms, and then as a chef. "The studies you choose have a lot to do with how you understand the world: if you do art, you have a very different mind than if you do science." Perhaps it is at that crossroads between sensibility and method where his way of understanding cuisine is born: rigorous but alive, with a cool head and a gesture guided by instinct.

A way of inhabiting the frontier that Pere Castells, chemist and president of the Science & Cooking World Congress, clearly formulates: "Great advances always occur at the frontier." For him, both science and cooking try to understand the world through repetition, measurement, and control, but also from intuition. "Science brings structure to cooking and cooking teaches how to react with agility." A dialogue that becomes visible in inventions like spherification, which start from science but, once created for cooking, find applications in medicine. A circle that closes, feeds back, and reminds us that, sometimes, cooking is also a way of thinking.

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