As tempting as ever in a privileged confluence of Barcelona's Eixample, the historic Colmado Múrria has been open for a few months with a new life but has already made a strong impression with its gastronomic proposal. From the fascinating lifelong shop of cured meats, smoked products, cheeses, oils, wines, preserves, and various 'delicatessen', to the restaurant where one can enjoy the magic of chef Jordi Vilà in a charismatic space.
The establishment, dating back to 1898 – acquired in 1943 by Josep Múrria, the father of Joan Múrria, who was the sole owner until last year – closed for a few months in 2022 to prepare for its new stage. There was great anticipation because the modernist establishment Colmado Múrria is part of the Architectural, Historical, and Landscape Protection Catalog of Emblematic Establishments in the city of Barcelona. Its shop windows have always been a local icon, widely photographed.
For the new journey of Colmado Múrria, the merchant partnered with Ernest Pérez-Mas (also owner of the Heretat Mascorrubí winery) and Vilà at the helm of the kitchen to reinvent the grocery store. Now one can do their shopping, taste some dishes, or have an intimate dinner. There is even a small private room for groups of up to 10 people in what was once a wine cellar.
Gastronomic experiences
In Colmado Múrria promise (and deliver) "gastronomic experiences." The counter has even expanded the section of vinos y licores to 200 references.cheeses, for example. WhileEl Murriit is a bar with high tables, more informal and for tapas, and The 1898 Roomis the most noble part, with capacity for only eight diners and the possibility of tasting menus.
Initially, these two spaces offered different proposals, the second more formal and elaborate, but to facilitate service and meet demand, in recent weeks they are unifying the menu for both spaces and incorporating some changes.
For dipping bread
Jordi Vilà, with a starMichelin for his restaurant Alkimia, he displays his personal stamp by enhancing local and proximity identity, and immortalizing many dishes fromchup chup for which one has to reach for bread. But always with its point of reinterpretation, and where there is room for surprise or applause.
The repertoire ranges from quick bites (such as Salmon and Iberian jowl marriage, Chicken rillettes Eclaire…) to other shareable dishes, among which the Marga's Florentine omelet stands out (a tribute to the one prepared by the restaurant of the same name on Saragossa street, until its closure due to retirement). It is made with bread with tomato between the egg and topped with Iberian ham, and the result does justice to the original. In contrast, the deconstructed croquette is surprising, although it would not be a dish to repeat on a new visit.
Also the Múrria salad (with cod brandade, among other versions, and which usually sells out), the homemade Campagne terrine, the onion-braised squid, the three-meat roasted cannelloni with fresh truffle, the beef fricandó with 'trompetes de la mort', or the more original tuna fricandó (an intense bite of the sea, mellow and extraordinarily executed) or the 'cap i pota' with black butter and capers… Powerful dishes that do not leave indifferent.
Cheeses on the plate
And although the solvency of the desserts is guaranteed, it is almost obligatory to make an incursion into thecheeses (whether as a main course or as a finishing touch), in view of the repertoire of both local and international products that call from the grocery area. Several references can be chosen and one can let the house guide them, depending on the intensity one demands.Obviously, if something already shone in Múrria's store, it was the drinks, so there is the opportunity to pair or opt to discover a wine among its 250 references, or among about thirty in the case of sparkling wines.
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