The soul of Barcelona is also its hotels

Barcelona as a setting for travelers and visitors. Women and men who have stopped in this city throughout its history for an infinite number of reasons: pleasure, work, escape, obligation, exile. The streets, the monuments, the people. The places to eat and drink properly. The points from which to enjoy the best views. The corners where to find peace amidst the hustle and bustle. The dens where to abandon oneself to the frenzy of nights whose secrets die with the next dawn. And, in all these stories, in all these pilgrimages to the entrails of the city, the hotels, guesthouses, and inns. The places that welcome the traveler and that, in a way as paradoxical as it is undeniable, represent a piece of the city's soul unknown to its own inhabitants.

And as unknown as its soul is its history, something that Josefina Romero, a retired professor, expert in Contemporary History and Geography of Tourism, has wanted to remedy with Hotels de Barcelona (Albertí). This profusely documented and illustrated volume traces the history of the city's hotels through three historical moments: 1849, shortly before the city transcended its walls to flourish in the Eixample; 1888, with the Universal Exhibition, and 1929, with the International Exhibition. And it closes with a history of the numerous centenary establishments that Barcelona still treasures, in not a few cases with the name that saw them born.

"The basis of this book is the degree work I did for the Master's in Geography of Tourism at the UAB in 1991, a time when a shortage of hotel beds for the Olympic Games was foreseen," explains the author who, upon retiring, has resumed the topic, "with plenty of time to visit archives, read period press and document myself thoroughly," she explains.

And she smiles, glancing at the cover, which reflects a fragment of a splendid illustration that John Hassall made in 1906, for a poster that advertised Barcelona as a winter city. Pure modernism.

--- The book begins by explaining hospitality in Barcelona in 1849. Why did you choose this specific date?

--- To explain the beginnings of hospitality and its initial evolution, I had to go to a time before the disappearance of the walls, and 1849 was the first year of the first half of the 19th century that offered me good guides to Barcelona. And not one, but three, with a lot of information about the establishments to stay in!

--- In this first part, you cite the signing, by Carlos II, of the Free Trade Regulation with America, carried out in 1778. How did that affect Barcelona's hospitality industry?

--- This decree increased port traffic and facilitated colonial exchanges. Therefore, it was necessary to create more inns to accommodate travelers. La Rambla, due to its proximity to the port, was going to benefit greatly, as was confirmed by the opening of numerous inns in the area.

--- Another aspect you highlight is that of the Piedmontese, who are the great promoters of hospitality in Barcelona, being the ones who opened the first eating houses and the first inns and lodgings. Who were these families who, for decades, held the monopoly of hospitality in the city?

--- This seems to me an especially interesting aspect of this study. There are two periods in Piedmontese immigration to Barcelona. The first, between the 16th and 17th centuries, was a minority and was made up of merchants and investors who, taking advantage of the deficit of accommodation in the city, opened establishments. In contrast, from the 18th and 19th centuries, it was an immigration of people fleeing poverty and insecurity in their country. Most came from Civiasco and other towns in the Valle d'Orta. They undertook a long and difficult journey to reach the port of Genoa to embark for Barcelona. Once here, they received help from their compatriots who were already settled in the city. This last wave was the architect of hospitality in our city. Names like Durio, Maffioli, Antonietti, Fortis, Primatesta and many others deserve to be remembered.

--- What characterized them?

--- It was an immigration with strong family ties among them. They operated as commercial societies and actively participated within the industrial and commercial organization of the city. Furthermore, it was a successful immigration that made a fortune, but without forgetting their roots: they traveled periodically to their country, where they married and where they retired when they were older, sometimes becoming patrons of local talent, and left the management of the businesses to the relatives who had arrived later. Curiously, however, in the 1920s they left their establishments in the hands of the local population. Thus, Durio sold the Hotel Oriente to Esteve Sala Cañadell, and Cacciami, the Majestic to Martí Casals Galceran. In any case, as stated: it is fair and necessary to remember those Italians who introduced the concept of hotel, hospitality for travelers, unlike the inns or guesthouses that served more the demand of muleteers.

Barcelona has 21 centenary hotels

--- These are two moments when Barcelona projects itself abroad with the desire to be an attractive city and attract visitors. In 1888, it suffered from a lack of hotels: there were only four, which led to the construction of the Hotel Internacional in just 53 days, only to be demolished immediately after the Exhibition. Then, in 1929, it is noted that there has been a change. By then, Barcelona had more than 60 hotels, and tourism was already an industry.

--- The volume closes with an impressive list and historiography of Barcelona's centenary hotels. There are still so many!

--- Yes, I found it interesting to show which establishments from the period covered by the book still survive. There are 21 centenary hotels that, in the old town, are located around Plaça de Catalunya and La Rambla. In contrast, of the establishments that were articulated around Pla de Palau and El Born, an area that had been so important before the city's expansion, none remain. Interestingly, today there are many again, but they are very recently opened.

--- How have those that are still standing been preserved?

The centenary hotels in the old town have suffered the degradation of Las Ramblas from the Civil War until the late 20th century. Now, they have benefited from the attractiveness that this neighborhood exerts on tourism. Some are simple, but there are establishments that are testimonies of the Modernist era and should be preserved. For example, the Cuatro Naciones, a part of the ceiling of its old dining room is preserved in the Ale Hop store; the Peninsular, a marvel that fortunately is in the hands of a family that preserves it well, or the España, carefully restored. In any case, I find it sad to note the lack of sensitivity in the conservation of this city's heritage. And, for me, the case of the Cuatro Naciones is a clear example of this.

--- Another important moment, although it is no longer in your book beyond mentions, is that of the Olympic Games. You told me that in 1991 it was feared that, to accommodate the visitors they would attract, Barcelona would not have enough hotels...

--- Yes, at that time the city had 312 establishments, and there was concern about not meeting demand. It was even proposed to individuals to rent their homes temporarily. The Olympic Games showcased an iconic Barcelona. From that moment on, tourism increased exponentially.

Some hotels are doing an important job of heritage conservation, and many are spaces open to the local population

--- Very improvable. The benefit of the tourism industry has been imposed over the quality of life of the local population.

--- Would you say that the current Special Urban Plan for Tourist Accommodation, the well-known Peuat, responds to the need for a balance between what Barcelona residents and tourists need?

--- The Peuat addresses one aspect, hotels, but I believe the problem lies in the large number of tourist apartments. Some hotels are doing important work in heritage conservation. Furthermore, many are also spaces open to the local population. Apartments are merely a source of profit and speculation for their owners, who in many cases are investment funds, and which in turn are a source of serious problems for Barcelona residents.