IN THE STREAM

The Old Roads of Barcelona

A book recovers 21 urban hiking routes through the paths that have connected the city since Roman times

13 april of 2022 at 14:53h

A new and original book about Barcelona was presented a few days ago at the Sant Antoni market. It is Els camins antics de Barcelona, in which its author, Xavier Martínez i Edo, compiles 21 itineraries of what he calls "urban hiking" and which cover ancient paths that have partly survived to this day, fossilized in the city's street network.

These are paths that Barcelona's urban history has largely submerged under the carpet of the Eixample. They were forged over two millennia from Roman roads ---some of them took advantage of the layout of ancient Iberian paths--- and continued through the Middle Ages.

Sections of some of them have survived to this day, especially in Ciutat Vella, but also in other historical centers such as Gràcia, Sant Andreu, Horta, Les Corts, Sarrià, or Sants. Likewise, in some parts of the Eixample, such as the current Avenida Mistral, which in this area breaks Cerdà's grid and crosses diagonally from Viladomat to Paral·lel.

Sections of some of them have survived to this day, especially in Ciutat Vella
Avenida Mistral is the heir of the Roman Via Augusta, specifically the branch that in medieval times started from the Sant Antoni city wall gate, located on the current street of the same name, and ran towards the Llobregat, through what are today the aforementioned avenue, Creu Coberta, and the Sants road.This variant of the Via Augusta was known in the Middle Ages as Camí Ral d'Aragó and also as Via Morisca, being the one that led to the Muslim lands of the peninsula. In the 18th century, it became the Madrid road, projected by Carlos III.

In fact, beneath the guts of the Sant Antoni market, a section of the original Via Augusta is preserved, which attendees at the book presentation were able to visit exceptionally, as it is inexplicably closed to the public. This section of the ancient Roman road was discovered during archaeological excavations that took place as a result of the market's renovation, which also brought to light part of the old Sant Antoni bastion. This part of the wall is indeed visitable. I take this opportunity to demand the opening of the remains of the Via Augusta. It is an important part of the city's history and does not deserve to remain locked up tight, when its recovery was possible thanks to the taxes of all Barcelonians and we have the right to know it.

This article is not about revealing all the paths and details narrated by Xavier Martínez. It is a book to buy, give as a gift, and enjoy, not to be the subject of spoilers. I will only dwell on another of the Roman roads that thousands of people walk every day, most of them unknowingly. This is the Camí de Sant Cugat, which can still be followed today through the Portal de l'Àngel, Paseo de Gràcia, Riera de Sant Miquel, and crosses Vallcarca and Collserola. According to the author, its destination was the fortress of Castrum Octavianum, which protected the intersection of the Via Augusta with the Via Egara. In medieval times, it became the Camí Ral de Sant Cugat or de Montserrat, as it led towards central Catalonia.

In short, the reader will find in this book a new way to discover Barcelona through this network of paths that extends through all the districts of the city and that, in the words of Xavier Martínez, is a "stimulating and motivating" way to enjoy our urban landscape and two millennia of history through urban planning. And as Machado used to say: one makes the path by walking.

Today, the Camí de Sant Cugat can still be followed through the Portal de l'Àngel, the Paseo de Gràcia, and the Riera de Sant Miquel. © theNBP
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