The year that is ending has brought dozens of gastronomic novelties to Barcelona, recovered from the pandemic debacle and eager for flavors and bars to discover after long months of creative and investment containment. But among those that have landed best and have the most possibilities of a long life in the Catalan capital –where so many culinary adventures are a flash in the pan– is Tangana, that invention of chef Josep Maria Masó, which lives up to its name and just by its signature had gained ground.
And with an unpretentious, solvent menu, with the dose of market and tradition that the post-pandemic applauds, and with moderate bills, it has found its place in a charming street in Gràcia. Close enough to the center, the upper area, and the Vila, to savor the triumph of filling up on a Monday, no less, when we visited it.
Barcelona, a city with discreet activity on weekdays, where local diners are prone to moderation, does not have many options with animation on Mondays or Tuesdays. But the surprise was to find the bar full, and its table capacity very busy, in the final stretch of the year.
A glance at its menu and a look at the dishes served is enough to understand that the Catalan capital cries out for well-executed tapas options, without frills, with a good background of traditional cuisine, a renewing touch, and careful service, that scarce commodity in the city.
A duo in a state of grace
In its first year of life, the establishment whose kitchen is run by Masó and his (very accomplished) disciple Álex López Lamiel,has hit the bullseye on the street of theRiera de Sant Miquel, 19. His menu, not very extensive but tempting, starts with proposals for snacks ranging from oysters to pringá or calamari molletes. Josep Maria, who at 59 is experiencing a second youth and has led his own projects in Cerdanya and Garraf, already hit the nail on the head with his essential contribution toCañete or Martínez. And that DNA survives. Its honeyedRussian salad Russian salad with tuna oil mayonnaise goes down easy and has been improving its formula throughout the year.But even more essential are the croquetones of fricandó, without dressings and where each bite has the best of two worlds: as explosive and crunchy, as it is evocative of stews that, fortunately, are no longer extinct. Among the dishes, the artichoke flowers with spicy romesco have also become a hit. Delicious and open on the plate, inciting to sin.
Like the Lazy Omelet with bread with tomato and acorn-fed ham, undercooked and open, showing the ingredients in its entrails, in a new version of the one immortalized by the mythical La Florentina a few years ago, in Putxet.
The Cured salmon loin with Café de París sauce shows the delicacy of the cuisine, open to the arena, with first-class product. We did not try their baked fish, but we know that they are already a house brand. In the repertoire, however, the preparations without a stopwatch stand out: French-style confit lamb shank; roasted chicken ravioli with plums; surf and turf of sweetbreads and prawns…
And the daily specials seek the freshest from the market, like a first-class squid (that day) that they can dispatch without further ado than grilled, although it does not allow to discover their cuisine.
Another point in its favor is containing prices despite being in a sought-after territory. The snacks mostly range between 4 and 9 euros, and the dishes especially between 10 and 16 euros. Although they also exhibit special pieces such as Chateaubriand and old cow ribeye.
As a sweet finish, they boast of Baba with rum and chantilly, and the Tangana Bomb, among others. We tried a White Lady with white and dark chocolate: truffles bathed in white, elegant, ideal for changing register without saturating digestion.
Excellent service
Another point in Tangana's favor is having competent service, knowledgeable of each dish and the optimal selection of wines served by the glass, agile enough for the bar and tables to flow without waits.These holidays, they have launched their menu of Christmas groups, with a pica-pica and a main course that can range from a ribeye steak to other less main dishes, with proposals that adapt to the client's budget, explains Ricard Torres, one of the owners. They do not open on Sundays, precisely out of respect for that staff they want to pamper and retain, successfully.