Although I love summer, there's always a moment in autumn when I start to long for the cold to arrive. And if there's one street that embodies winter in the city, it's Petritxol street, in the Gòtic, the alley that connects Plaça del Pi with Portaferrissa. In fact, a shop full of Christmas decorations has already opened. Here, there's a rush to get ahead of the seasons, to lower temperatures, which is when the street reaches its maximum splendor, with its chocolate shops full and even with queues at the door. This is the street in Barcelona that smells best, the one that whets the appetite, the one with the oldest "granjas" (dairy bars), Dulcinea and Pallaresa, and other more modern ones that contribute to the tradition of going there for a good chocolate.
In the shop windows, you can see a replica of everything you can eat: churros, melindros, ensaimadas, and the star combination, the "suizo" (Swiss chocolate). And inside, a predominantly female clientele and a predominantly male service. Uniformed waiters, quick to serve the tables. Their speed contrasts with the tranquility of the customers who are savoring the chocolate. Unique moments that can stir family memories, because people also come here to remember or maintain these gatherings, afternoon snacks with grandma or mom, dates with friends, with sisters, as a couple or alone, as therapy, as an intimate celebration, as a whim, because one day is one day, a moment of pleasure, sometimes, guilty pleasure around the white cup full of the almost black, sweet and thick cream.
Chocolate is the main reason why this 129-meter long, three-meter wide, and slightly crooked street is known. I would dare to say it's the best-known small street in Barcelona. Because it has also been the first in two important things: the first without cars, since 1959 they cannot circulate. And the first with a neighborhood association, which was founded in 1947 and the tradition of taking care of the street has been maintained until now. Residents and shopkeepers are convinced that it is one of the best-maintained in the city.
And when I passed, I confirmed that it is clean. That the lampposts, very beautiful, are well preserved. That the 25 ceramic mosaics that hang on the facades and that are also a sign of identity, are intact. In them you can read rules and customs: "Esteem and spread civility in the street", "Vehicles: moderate speed and short stops" or "Admireu de sol a sol el carrer de Petritxol". There are also other plaques that remember some of the characters who made the street famous: Àngel Guimerà, who lived here; Montserrat Caballé, who worked in it; Picasso, who they say exhibited; Dalí who went to drink chocolate, and an image of Mercè, patron saint of the city.
Petritxol street has everything to become a mini version of La Rambla, in fact, it is parallel to the promenade. But it has the great merit of having maintained its essence. Only a few things remind you of what is happening around: a tourist rental bicycle leaning against a wall, a Basque pintxos establishment with a girl-lure at the door and a couple of shops with sophisticated souvenirs for visitors who are not satisfied with a fridge magnet. Exceptions in the midst of seven jewelers, stationery stores and other shops with history, and the elegant art gallery, Sala Parés. A true winter climatic refuge. And may it be so for many more years.