Even knowing the laziness many Barcelona residents feel when thinking about going down to the Gòtic neighborhood and mixing with its tide of tourists, we can guarantee that the excursion is worth it if Mercer Restaurant is the destination. The hotel (a listed monument) and its essential main restaurant are located very close to the Cathedral, on a quiet and somewhat hidden street. The building has been conquering luxury-loving travelers with history and unique accommodations for over a decade. But also gastroadicts who demand talent in the dishes, high-level service, and an environment that makes the feast a complete experience. Whether they are visitors or citizens tempted by the evolution of Xavier Lahuerta's cuisine.
Located in the heart of the historic center (Lledó street), the Mercer was born under the distinctive sign of buildings built on a part of the Roman wall of ancient Barcino. It had the honor of becoming a luxury hotel with a delightful renovation (between past and future) by architect Rafael Moneo. And the luck of treasuring everything from medieval arches to pieces from different periods that enchant the traveler looking for more than an ephemeral accommodation in those 28 rooms and suites.
Entering into gastronomic matters, in its short history, the restaurants (spearheaded by Jean Luc Figueras) have had an irregular trajectory, but also the opportunity to refine their offer in recent years. It has finally hit the nail on the head with the informal option of the gastrobar Le Bouchon. This goes beyond the tourist tapa, and within the plan to honor the best neighborhood bars, it vigorously introduces local specialties at surprisingly good prices for a hotel of its category.
More than a tourist tapa
From Russian salad to the Barcelona bomba or smoked sardine in oil, among the more conventional tapas, one can jump to dishes with a lot of culinary depth. Like its wonderfulstewed meatballs with Mediterranean cuttlefish, tripe with chickpeas or hock with polenta. Without overlooking their explosive macaroni with sobrasada and white chocolate.The gastrobar, with direct street access, is possibly the most complete option that can be found in the old town of the city at the moment, light years away from some tourist aberrations, cloned design spaces or stale taverns that populate a good part of the center.
High-level cuisine
Whether one stays at Mercer or not, the gastrojoya of the crown, its main eponymous restaurant, which has lived through various stages until finding itsidentity, it also now deserves to be a local pilgrimage point. Architecturally, it already sharpens the senses: high ceilings, wooden beams, stone, and centuries of history, favored by the dim lighting of its orange tree patio, are a perfect setting.Lahuerta deploys a kitchenelegant andtasty, which gives no respite to thejoy of the palate. He defines it as "contemporary and with a Mediterranean soul," but what he likes to boast about is that "the cook mustcook, remember the "chup chup" and add technique," he explains.It's difficult to choose a table because every corner has some appeal. It has an impressive private room in one of the 76 watchtowers of Barcelona's old Roman wall, great for small celebrations. But the light of its orange tree patio offers other charming corners with more or less intimacy.
New stage for Lahuerta
The chef Xavier Lahuerta(Barcelona, 1975) inherited her passion for cooking from her grandmothers and began her journey many years ago with Figueras. She also learned from Xavier Pellicer, Santi Santamaria, Carles Gaig, Ferran Adrià, and Carles Abellán, and after honing her skills in some of the best Catalan kitchens for two decades, she joined Mercer as executive chef in 2019.It was not her first time in this house, where she had already led the kitchen years before for a brief period. However, upon her return, her proposal had been nourished by the inspiration of her travels, a high-level resume, and a greater influence from the roots of national cuisine, based on local ingredients.
The pandemic and a recent leave delayed her project, which is now flowing and finding an appreciative audience among travelers and Barcelonians returning to the Gòtic.
She advocates for "few, well-prepared ingredients," health at the table, and an emotional experience. But far from being a boring cuisine, each bite is an explosion of flavor, a balance between sea and mountain, between the star ingredient and its dressing. If one dish has become "iconic" of the house, it is the smoked eel with golden apple, varnished with anise (pastry elements often appear in her recipes) and salsify. So addictive that one would repeat it on every visit.
From the current menu, we also tried the mushroom cannelloni with Perol sausage (in the filling and as a decorative element in the presentation) and topped with prawns (lightly seared on the griddle), with an explosive béchamel sauce made with the prawn head. The contrast is again the best ally of the combination, but each of the ingredients stands out with force and showcases the quality of her pantry.
Carnivores and sweet tooths
Equally resounding was the aged old cow loin30 days with baby carrots and truffle zest, which releases all its aromas when the cooking juice of the meat is poured over it. It is presented with a creamy Jerusalem artichoke and another of mussel. Another possible proposal is the braised ox sirloin.On the menu, another ace for carnivores is the suckling goat with sage, sweet potato puree with cinnamon and citrus. While among the fish, the grilled market fish with vegetables never fails.
The menu, not very long but sufficient, also includes a successful soupy rice from the Dehesa de la Albufera, with Mediterranean shrimp and artichokes from El Prat among its main dishes.
As lighter starters, the Zucchini carpaccio with umami tuna tartare or the Salad with pomegranate and pickled artichokes also stand out.
Complete tasting
The undecided can immerse themselves in Lahuerta's cuisine with its 90 euro tasting menu to which can be added the 45-euro pairing that selects Lluis Roigas Food and Beverage director, guiding the diner through the wines and the overall experience.The menu begins with olive in its texture and crispy tapioca and unfolds two starters and two main courses along with one of its desserts.
In the sweet section, the chef of Mercer Restaurante seeks healthy proposals with low sugar content. From the richness of the cold chocolate Coulant with toffee sauce and flake salt or the delicious chocolate Tonka bean with miso cream. To lighter options, such as Lemon cream with basil sorbet or Lychee and raspberry compote with milk chocolate 10.
The wine list is extensive and well-advised by Roig. That day he made a good territorial tour from Empordà (TramuntanArt, red Grenache) to Tarragona (La Lleona Cartoixà de Marina).