Another Italian restaurant in Barcelona? Any new opening could be debated, considering that the city already has an endless list of this gastronomy, from the most modest to the most exclusive versions. But the arrival of the Big Mamma group with its Gloria Osteria Barcelona adds enough distinctive elements to have quickly carved out a niche among local palates. They explain that their raison d'être is none other than "to offer delicious, authentic, and generous Italian food, at accessible prices and served with a smile." But they also do it in a spectacular venue in the Eixample, in one of the epicenters of Barcelona's hospitality industry (Enric Granados) and with a product philosophy with identity marks that gives it soul.
The authenticity they seek seemingly clashes with the fact that the group was born in France and currently operates in six countries. But its promoters, Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger, wanted to eat "like in Italy" and traveled the country for a year to shape their gastronomic concept and find the best ingredients and producers. In 2015, they opened their first establishment in Paris, and to date, they have 27.
A dazzling interior
In Barcelona, the characteristics of the premises determined its identity. It is the space that was occupied a few years ago by the macro-restaurant Bellavista Jardín del Norte (with the Messi family as investors) and which, after its failed trajectory, was taken over by the Salvaje group, which also did not succeed in the city. On this occasion, everything indicates thatthird time's the charm, given the full houses in the few weeks it has been open and the power of the group that backs it.For Barcelona, they chose the Gloria concept, which they had already developed in Milan more than a year ago, with a glamorous osteria format, a retro touch that evokes Italy's golden years, extensive design, and in this case, the impressive natural light provided by the large windows overlooking a garden (not accessible) at the back. With more than 1,000 square meters on two floors and capacity for 230 diners, the space, its architecture, and interior design already make a visit mandatory even before seeing its menu.
The proposal is the work of their design team, Studio Kiki, featuring mirror columns, golden details, a giant Murano glass lamp over the bar, 70-kilogram chandeliers, carpets, and a layout of tables and benches that allow for many corners and a certain intimacy even in such a busy room. The upper part also serves as a viewpoint and houses a workshop where they make fresh pasta, which is one of the pillars of their cuisine, though not the only one.
Before talking about their kitchens, we must refer to their pantry, as the group prides itself on working with quality, very Italian products that are imported to each country where they open a restaurant, detailing the origin and the producer. In this case, 170 producers from the country of origin supply what is eaten in Enric Granados. And "everything is made in-house," they emphasize, from Neapolitan pizzas (from 15 to 25 euros) ---like the Gloria Ibérica, with Iberian pancetta and a base of Iberian béchamel with 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano--- to their artisanal ice cream.
They cite among their arsenal everything from mozzarellas from the La Murgia cheese factory in Muggiò, according to the Puglian tradition, to the artisanal Prosciutto San Daniele D.O.P 24 months La Glacere or the cured meats from Azienda Agricola Bettella. Not to mention the reign of caviar. This modus operandi has contributed to them being the first hospitality group to receive B-Corp certification in 2018, an international label that measures and values the real impact and positive contributions of a company's activity, from social to environmental commitment.
From cocktail to table
Once at the table, the atmospherehedonist invites you to try the cocktails, from their version of the Rossini to other original creations, although they also exhibit an interesting imported wine cellar. With a team of almost ahundred professionals,the majority of whom have arrived from Italy or from other Big Mamma restaurants, although local, specifically trained staff will gradually be introduced.The service in the dining room is friendly and attentive, despite the business still taking off and having to deal with a high influx. They know how to advise well on the menu, which starts with varied antipasti, ranging from oysters to charcuterie boards and some initial hits, such as the crispy balls filled with vitello tonnato with tonnata sauce and fried caper, which we were able to try, where the quality of the product and also the philosophy of the house are appreciated: large dishes so that no one goes hungry and, therefore, easy to share in many cases. In the seafood section, some dishes also function as starters or first courses. The Tonno tonnato, cuts of raw Balfegó tuna, with tonnata sauce, capers, and soy is a good option.
Trying pasta is almost a must at Gloria, where the spectacle of their carbonara al tartufo ---spaghettoni served in a pecorino wheel with guanciale, egg yolk, pepper, and truffle--- coexists, among others, with various stuffed formats. We tried one of their stars, the generous casoncelli stuffed with lobster (30 euros), which are sautéed in beurre blanc and finished with a fresh shrimp tartare, an explosion of the sea with the consistency of their artisanal pasta. And also the ossobuco alla milanese ravioli with meat juice and saffron, an ideal dish also for sharing and that carnivores will enjoy.
Mandatory desserts at Gloria Osteria
But their repertoire also elevates the fish (like a butterflied sea bream) and themeat (from the tagliata di manzo to the tomahawk for two, both from La Finca). And rated as gourmet, the aforementioned pizzas also fly off the shelves (although we didn't try them).Without forgetting the happy and surprising endings in dimension, presentation, and flavor. Although the tiramisu with a touch of Marsala alcohol will be the choice of many fans of this Transalpine dessert, pay attention to the lemon tart with a meringue layer for the sweetest tooths, or the enormous Baked Alaska for two (Sponge cake, chocolate and stracciatella ice cream covered with Italian meringue and flambéed with Grand Marnier). If chocolate runs through your veins, don't hesitate to go for the Choco Clap Clap: chocolate cake with salted caramel and crunchy coffee praline, which they place on a plate covered with whipped cream.
They state that the average ticket ranges from 40 to 50 euros, although the repertoire of options and prices is so varied that one can eat for both 30 and much more, depending on the selection.