The residents of the Tres Torres neighborhood, in Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, applaud the opening. But word-of-mouth means more and more Barcelonans have also been venturing since early November into Milanesat street to literally discover what's cooking in that charming restaurant named Casa Telmo. In these times, a space away from the frenzy of central Barcelona, which can also be categorized as good, beautiful, and affordable, is appreciated. One of those dining rooms where it's a pleasure to be and where the service, the great weakness of many openings in recent years, shows experience and enthusiasm.
The San Telmo Group endorses the new stage of the restaurant, which occupies an old neighborhood warehouse and workshop, but has lived several gastronomic lives. Looking back, the period when it was called Cerchas and later Acontraluz stands out, due to the emotional ties that already connected it then with Isidre Marqués, founder of the group and a resident of the area. As soon as he saw the opportunity, the restaurateur went for this small oasis a few steps from Via Augusta.
Despite its recent debut, it is enough to remember that its 'siblings' are Tantarantana (2001), San Telmo (2006), El Canalla (2011), Palosanto (2016), Bistro Mató (2020) and Café de l'Acadèmia (2024), to ensure that Casa Telmo is born with the intention of doing well and taking root in the neighborhood.
The space comes alive again with a sober and elegant interior design, with a white background and dark furniture and details, where its immaculate tablecloths especially stand out. Precisely, its spirit of a dining house and homemade recipes finds its best symbol in the tablecloth, which also gives its name to the weekday lunch menu (24.5 euros and a real magnet in the area).
Uninterrupted kitchen
Even à la carte, the average ticket price is between 35 and 40 euros, because it is ideal for sharing starters as a couple or group and even main courses. It must be said that it is difficult to decide whether Casa Telmo is more seductive for lunch or dinner. By day it has a fantasticnatural light and its terrace is very pleasant, but at night the atmosphere is intimate and warm, and invites you to take advantage of its bar, with a good selection of drinks before dinner. In any case, the establishment has opted for theuninterrupted kitchenfrom 13:00 to 22:45.The menu is not very long, but it is tempting and balanced. They do not seek creative display or technical surprise, but rather the honesty of a homemade and generous cuisine, where the product rules and shines. They state that their Mediterranean and seasonal pantry results in more refined proposals than the rest of the group, although we confirm the renewed success of some old acquaintances from other establishments, such as their Iberian Milanese with poached egg and tartufata.
The role of top-level suppliers is already evident in the starters (Joselito Iberian ham, Maison Carpinelli cheese assortment, Xillu anchovies, and Sant Lluís N°2 Catalan oyster). The rapid reign of 'hits' such as crystal shrimp, or the delicious Russian shrimp salad (9.8€) and the options of open omelet, such as the ceps with Joselito Iberian pancetta, is anticipated. However, it should be almost mandatory to try the unprecedented Confit leeks with stracciatella and bottarga (14.90€), a true delicacy: juicy and perfect for sharing only at this location.
The house also boasts about its robust casseroles (some iconic of the group): Macarrones a la Cardenal, Strogonoff Meatballs, and Veal Fricandó. But here it emphasizes above all its 100% organic meats of Catalan origin and fresh fish from the Barcelona fish market.
Among the former are the Diced beef sirloin, which here they have varied over potato parmentier and glazed shallots, or the generous Entrecôte Café de Paris, spiced and reinterpreted in their own way.
Private dining room
Among the fish is their most expensive dish, the Turbot with black butter, but also the surprisingSquid with masked potato and mushrooms,as tender as they are well accompanied.The offer closes with classic desserts that never fail, well executed, from the creamy homemade Flan with cream, to the Tarte Tatin with Girona apples and milk cream, among other examples. The wine cellar is correct and attentive to Catalan DOs (bottles from 12.50 euros) and with a good selection of sparkling wines.
During these dates, they offer different group and Christmas menus, with the added attraction of a private room, La Pecera, for up to 45 diners.