It was 2020 when we interviewed Marc Villà as one of the restaurateurs affected by the pandemic, one of those who had been sidelined with a new (and delicious) project in Barcelona's kitchen. He told us that ---in association--- he was about to open a place in El Born (Rec, 60), when the state of alarm arrived.
With the new place, they wanted to give a little brother to the first Bronzo on Còrsega, 307, where they had already ignited the flame and addiction to Venetian recipes three years earlier. They had to wait, but the new restaurant took off with strength and is one of the essentials in the coolest neighborhood of Ciutat Vella, based on honesty, flavor, product, and the spirit of a bacaro.
Those taverns of the lagoon, in northern Italy, where sharing small dishes, wines, chatter, and eternal friendships, had captivated them for years, making Villà and Joan Castells dream of their own replica in Barcelona.
They have achieved it twice over with the two establishments, with the same gastronomic purpose, but which interact with different audiences and atmospheres. The one in Eixample is a safe bet in an infallible district for talented restaurants. The one in El Born is architecturally more akin to the Venetian example, with tradition, high ceilings, and deliciously nostalgic interior design. And it inherits the power of the walls that once housed an early Coca-Cola production site.
Shared Tapas
Once in the thick of it, you have to arrive at Bronzo wanting to share and flow, taking for granted that you are in good hands and letting yourself be carried away by the temptation of its cicchetti, the typically Venetian tapas or appetizer. The good thing is that the diner can indulge in exploration with the help of their waiters, who will enlighten them about infallible hits, or other discoveries.
For an initiation, it is clear that you have to go through the cheeses and cold cuts of rigor (selected and imported without margin of error), but delving into traditional dishes such as Baccalà Mantecato (or creamed cod), an explosion between crispy pane carasau. You also have to succumb to the Sarde in Saor (sweet and sour pickled sardines, with pine nuts, raisins, and a touch of lime), a jewel that makes the palate jump for 15 euros. And don't lose sight of Harry's pulsating Steak tartar, with pizza dough and french fries.
Less essential is the Vitello tonnato, rich, but without surprises. In contrast, the pasta, artisanal and made with bronze molds (which give the house its name) is a must-have. We tried the Bigoli in salsa, with caramelized onion and topped with anchovies, powerful and groundbreaking compared to the flimsy pasta recipes that abound in many pseudo-Italian restaurants in the city.
Risotto and much more
Even more memorable was the red shrimp risotto, full of sea flavor, perfectly cooked al dente, and wonderfully creamy. For another day, we left their stone-baked pizzete, Venetian meatballs, or tagliata… It's a place to repeat and explore further.
We can attest that Bronzo's tiramisu lives up to its name and does not disappoint, if your appetite allows. And that's saying something, as the gorgonzola cheesecake is usually a mandatory prescription. It's worth noting that the service is on par with the food, the wine pairing is more than competent, and the prices (it's easy to eat very well for about 30-40 euros) are fair.