The connection between Barcelona and the fashion industry has decades of history, but culminate in the 080 Barcelona Fashion. Since this new catwalk, named with the Barcelona prefix of the postal code, 080, became popular in 2007, the Catalan capital has not stopped hosting artists, talent, and designers capable of turning into art what for some might only be a piece of clothing. Over the years, however, the event has modernized, grown, and become much more exclusive: with renowned designers applying to parade in Barcelona. The 080 has become a pole of attraction, an open door to the Catalan view of the world, and a space that can change the lives of emerging designers. The 38th edition begins this Tuesday, with already known names like Dominico or Custo, but also with never-before-seen additions, like Surkana. A jumble of garments, accessories, and carefree luxury that will fill the Port Vell in the coming days. “A very Barcelona space,” as highlighted in the presentation of the parade by Marta Coca, project manager of the 080, for its brutalist and industrial character. An unmissable event, therefore, for haute couture and, undoubtedly, an opportunity for economic growth and international projection for the city.
"Barcelona is the stage for fashion," explains to The New Barcelona Post, Nàdia Quevedo, Commissioner for Economic Promotion, Commerce, Restoration, and Fashion Plan of the Barcelona City Council. The institutional representative recognizes the value of this parade and the return it has for the city, but claims that the Catalan capital was already the cradle of great designers and textile companies before the catwalk. This edition, the parade is more open than ever and although it can still only be accessed by invitation from a designer, Quevedo's will is "to make fashion reach people," with activities throughout the week around the city and even large mobile screens at four points in the city: Can Fabra, Glòries, Plaça del Mar, and Born, "to see the parade from other points of Barcelona," adds the commissioner. The most important will be PLEC. Barcelona Cultura de la Moda, a new platform that aims to open fashion to other languages and turn it into a meeting point with Barcelona culture, with photography, editorial culture, music, conversations, and performance. Names like Yolanda Muelas, Edu García Llamas, Luis Venegas, and Daniel Riera will participate.
This eagerness for the social return of 080 is not strange, as Barcelona has always been a city linked to the textile sector. In the second half of the 19th century, coinciding with the industrial revolution in Catalonia, textile companies began to grow. Barcelona became an important hub from where a large part of the clothing for the Spanish state was manufactured. But by the early 20th century, this was not enough. With a strong and consolidated industrial muscle, Catalan design houses, but also foreign ones, saw in Barcelona the opportunity to expand their business. Big names like Pedro Rodríguez or Balenciaga arrived in the capital of Catalonia with the hope of continuing to expand their long list of exclusive clients. There, the first seed was planted that would germinate in the 2000s with the launch of a modern fashion show that would give Barcelona, and also Catalonia, the international attention they deserved in terms of fashion: 080 Barcelona Fashion.
Since that first catwalk in 2007, where an international jury selected 12 independent designers, almost two decades have passed, but Catalan fashion and creativity remain at the center of the issue. Moisés Rodríguez, director of the Consortium of Commerce, Crafts and Fashion of Catalonia, assures this newspaper that "Catalan fashion is experiencing a good moment". The reality is that more and more workshops and designers are starting their adventure from Catalonia and, in many cases, dress international artists. Catalan fashion is no longer only seen on the streets of Barcelona, but also goes on international stages to sing songs, play instruments or present films. The 080 has been the platform for these artists and the return reaches the city. However, Rodríguez confirms that there is also a significant translation in sales, which shows that it is more than a sector with projection, behind it there is a solid business structure: "Catalonia has a fashion sector that invoices more than 17,500 million euros and employs more than 73,000 people", he says.
A space for emerging talent
If one thing connects 080 with the city of Barcelona, beyond its desire to collaborate, it is the admiration they process for entrepreneurs; people willing to leave everything to see a dream come true. Barcelona is a capital of start-ups, a title that has made it the technological hub of Southern Europe. 080 is known for giving space to emerging artists, people who after years of hard work can see their designs parade in one of the great fashion weeks of the world. For this reason, there are designers who for the first time step onto this catwalk with the intention of taking a step forward and placing themselves at the center of the world, from Port Vell. One of these brands is Surkana, which was born in Barcelona two decades ago and the proposal with which they debut in this edition is a dialogue between past and present, between Mexico and Barcelona, transformed through the creative universe.
"For us, debuting at 080 has been an important step and a shared dream for the entire team," they express from the brand. Since 2017, the creative direction has been led by Piedad Lara and finally, her vibrant and colorful way of seeing the world has been captured to parade among the best. The joy is shared within the brand, but they specify that there is a certain special excitement in doing it in Barcelona: "It's our home, and it's an essential part of the brand's DNA, we are a Mediterranean brand and we identify a lot with the color, light and spirit of our city," they recall. Surkana is a reminder that returning to the city is possible at 080 and that exclusivity does not have to turn its back on the city: "We want the public and the press here to get to know us better." Regarding the before and after of parading in a space like 080, from Surkana they want to keep their feet on the ground: "We don't believe that a parade changes everything at once," but they add: "The important thing will be what we build from here."
Catalan identity, to the world
Catalan fashion is increasingly known around the world. There are designers from Barcelona who have created pieces that have been seen on red carpets in the United States or at European film festivals. Catalonia is breaking through with force in a sector in which it had always been secondary. From textile companies to great designers, the Catalan DNA is gaining strength in haute couture and it does so through institutional and administrative promotion, but also through private events: "The strategy must be to promote platforms like 080 Barcelona Fashion, which contribute to positioning Catalonia as one of the reference territories in fashion, creativity, and design," remarks Rodríguez, director of the Consortium of Commerce, Crafts and Fashion of Catalonia. It is evident, then, that the will to make Barcelona a fashion city is public-private, especially due to the possibility of seeing companies grow internationally under a Catalan umbrella. "The fashion show places the city among the proposals of interest for fashion and a certain growth of Barcelona brands can be observed thanks to the revitalization of this catwalk," says Quevedo, commissioner of Economic Promotion, Commerce, Restoration and Fashion Plan of the Barcelona City Council.
In short, the 080 becomes a key piece for the economic growth of Catalonia, and especially for the city of Barcelona. The Catalan capital brings together great artists, designers from all over the world, and guests who will enjoy the splendor of the catwalks. Within the event, exclusivity will place Barcelona at the center of all eyes and will demonstrate that Catalans still understand, and very much so, haute couture. Outside the catwalks, the city council's proposals will bring residents closer to the event and make them participants in the construction of this Catalan brand linked to fashion. A union, then, that will once again make Barcelona shine as the city of opportunities.