Parades and catwalks are usually associated with haute couture and trends, with inaccessible fashion disconnected from the reality of the streets. However, designers have recently been opting to bring their creations closer to the general public. This is demonstrated by 080 Barcelona Fashion, which celebrates its 35th edition in the modernist complex of Sant Pau, an event that not only seeks to bring designs closer to the local public but also to cross borders and for Catalan fashion to become a benchmark worldwide.
The Catalan fashion week brings together influencers, students, journalists, and designers for four days, who follow with attention and enthusiasm the 24 shows, which bring together renowned brands in the sector such as Lola Casademunt but also emerging firms that are already conquering the hearts of celebrities, such as AAA Studio. A festive atmosphere full of inspiring outfits and elaborate makeup where what is important is not only what is worn in each show but also what can be seen around it, in addition to the thousands of photos and content that this event generates on social media.
In each edition of 080, in fact, it is more difficult to differentiate between the outfits of the varied public attending the catwalk, with content creators and journalists from all over the world, and the garments designed exclusively for the catwalk. Risky and colorful outfits, pompous coats, voluminous skirts, animal fur hats, and sunglasses ---although drizzle and clouds have been protagonists of the second day of 080--- have been protagonists on and off the catwalk. Fashion not only goes up on the catwalk, but can also be seen in the frontrow (the first line of people at the shows) and in its corridors.
Furthermore, the success of Catalan fashion week, promoted by the Consorci de Comerç, Artesania i Moda (CCAM) of the Department of Business and Work of the Generalitat, is not only to be a showcase for Catalan fashion, but to become a powerful engine for the textile sector. A meeting point for creatives, buyers, and press from all over the world. The eyes these days, therefore, are focused, apart from on the models with their marked walk and serious pose, on the relationships that are created around them, also in the Café Royale that 080 has installed at its entrance to encourage networking.
Thousands of people ---in its previous edition, the 080 exceeded 17,000 visitors during its four days--- who gather to share the same passion: fashion, and to discover the novelties that designers are preparing for the next season. Transparencies, vibrant and metallic colors, sequins, and large volumes have been some of the common elements on the runway. Even so, the shows have also featured elements more typical of everyday style, such as crochet, which has become a symbol of identity for 404 Studio, and even tracksuits, which will take the runway on the third day of 080 with the show by Barcelona-based Arnau Climent, creator of AAA Studio.
A diversity that has become one of the hallmarks of Catalan fashion week. The 080 aims to be a showcase for the diversity of the fashion sector, combining big brands with emerging names, as well as a great diversity of gender expressions, sizes ---although this issue remains a pending subject on the runway--- and origins. "The 080 collections are diverse but all share the fact that behind them there is a powerful discourse and a strong brand DNA," expresses the 080 project manager, Marta Coca.
These discourses go beyond aesthetics ---though without renouncing it because it is the essence of fashion---, and focus on social concerns, such as the feeling of exhaustion of Generation Z that AAA Studio will present, or the empowerment of women by Maison Moonsieur.
404 Studio, precisely, has taken advantage of this 080 platform to reclaim its history as a brand through the garments of its new collection Hack the system. Inspired by the film Hackers (1995), the brand by Valencian Anaïs Vauxcelles, has claimed that, thanks to platforms that support emerging brands like 080, the system can be cracked and a niche can be carved out in the fashion world, dominated by large groups and multinationals.
Vauxcelles paraded for the first time at 080 in the April 2023 edition and since then has not stopped attending the runway, in addition to not missing events such as Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Madrid ---where she won the Fashion Talent Award in 2021---, as well as in London or Los Angeles, and dressing celebrities of the stature of Dua Lipa. The contrast of volumes in the garments, in which crochet has predominated, and the vibrant colors of 404 Studio have captured all eyes, combined with plaid patterns.
The phrase kiss me could be read on the back of some of these garments, a form of expression of the pride the designer feels after having consolidated herself in a highly competitive sector where large brands account for most purchases. One of 080's objectives, precisely, is to help these brands consolidate in the sector and gain international recognition.
Crossing borders
"The mission of 080 is to put our country's brands on the international radar," highlighted Marta Coca. For this reason, the platform is committed not only to bringing brands with a global presence, such as Custo Barcelona, but also to allowing emerging brands to parade alongside these established names. A commitment to new creation that has become more evident than ever in the 35th edition of 080, the edition with the most debuting brands, with a total of nine new brands out of the 24 shows taking place in Sant Pau until Friday, April 4.
As Marta Coca recalled, the goal is not to compete with major international runways, such as Milan, New York, London, or Paris, but to gain relevance alongside other runways such as Seoul or Copenhagen. A goal that is certainly being achieved because, during Catalan fashion week, more and more languages are heard in the hallways, with English as the new protagonist.
The previous edition closed as the most international to date with more than 500 journalists and content creators from all over the world ---from the United States to Saudi Arabia---, and the current edition is gaining points to maintain this title, as it has so far attracted 400 local creators and 80 international influencers.
However, and despite the effort of the catwalk to place all brands at the same level, the big names continue to attract the largest number of attendees. At the Custo fashion show there was not a single seat available, with people standing to watch the show, with an attentive gaze so as not to miss a second of the new collection Light years presented by the Barcelona designer. Without forgetting the iconic printed t-shirts ---which are part of Custo's identity, and which on this occasion have been inspired by different wild animals--- the brand has once again opted for vibrant colors and metallic fabrics.
"I could wear something like that" or "I would love to have this garment in my closet" are some of the phrases that could be heard during the Custo Barcelona fashion show. A show in which garments, such as blazers, shorts, and flowing shirts, have once again captivated local and international audiences. Although glances were diverted at the end of the catwalk towards two spontaneous activists ---because the catwalk is not oblivious to social issues--- who displayed a banner stating "the Sant Pau Foundation does not allow abortions, do not be accomplices."
With these 24 fashion shows, the Catalan fashion sector ---made up of 13,500 companies and with an annual turnover of more than 14,500 million euros---, therefore, takes advantage of these four days in which the eyes of thousands of people are on the modernist complex of Sant Pau to boast of its ability to innovate and create different garments that, in addition, also manage to cross borders.