Its name is a declaration of intent: BaLó comes from Barcelona and London; a conjunction of talents from both cities; a conjugation of complementary culinary sensibilities. The balanced coalition of chefs (and owners) Lena María Grané and Ricky Smith blossomed after the pandemic into a particular gastronomic fusion with personality in the highly competitive gastronomic universe of the Catalan capital. In their restaurant, already established a few meters from Barcelona's Diagonal, there is room for surprise, always elegant and without stridency, and the joy of loyalty, since despite the success of many of their dishes, their proposal is changing and dynamic and encourages return visits. To the rhythm of the season and inspiration. For a first approach to their cuisine, for a few months now they also have a corner in the brand new Time Out Market at Maremagnum.
The sensations are already good as soon as one crosses the threshold of their young restaurant in the heart of Les Corts, where there was once a neighborhood dairy.
An old dairy
A wide corridor that already announces the prominent role of wines in the BaLó experience leads to a stylish dining room, which despite the absence of windows becomes a warm and comfortable wrapper for the feast being cooked a few meters away. Canvases on its minimalist walls and sculptures by British artists along with good lighting are the setting where tables become small stages for what is to come.That staging, with an ideal capacity of 20 diners and a traditional and competent service, anticipates the ambition of the proposal, where the cuisine will confirm that it is justified to dream of a starred future. For now, its most affordable menu (lunch, for 28 euros) already has the Bib Gourmand recognition from the Michelin Guide 2024 for its extraordinary value for money. Its creators have also won the Time Out Revelation Chef award.
Lena and Ricky have extensive resumes in their respective cities, although their paths crossed in London, where their Barcelona project was forged. But the fusion, with roots and nods to both culinary cultures, is not constrained but has room for intuition and creativity.
They define their foundations in quality, local, and seasonal products. Even with their own garden and in constant evolution. A part of the menu that we will describe below will change in autumn, but it exemplifies the style they have coined since their launch.
Their simplest option is the aforementioned Midday Menu (Tuesday to Friday), which includes sourdough bread with butter, and two dishes to choose from, plus dessert and water. Their star menu is the 12-course Tasting Menu (100 euros plus drinks or possible pairing for 55 euros).
A few days ago, we tried the Baló Menu, a shorter version, which does not disappoint or leave the diner hungry despite the tasting portions. In this case, for 65 euros (pairing option for 35 euros), and with flavors typical of the summer season that is coming to an end.
The feast begins with two snacks that will remain for the next few weeks: the quail egg in batter with curry emulsion and burnt onion powder, which delicately explodes in the mouth, subtle in flavor and perfect in its play of textures, from creamy to crispy wrapper. At the same time, a second starter is served, the Catalan Pyrenees beef tartare tartlet, with mustard seeds, black garlic dots, candied egg yolk, and fresh dill. It is a delicious bite, to be eaten with the hands, and replaces another successful tartare, served in other seasons.
Parade of flavor and technique
They were followed by theceleriac textures, with which it links fresh preparation and puree, withtoppingsof mustard seeds, pumpkin seeds, apple, and crispy cured ham. It is finished with fermented celeriac sauce with dots of dill oil. The composition is like a dance in the mouth.The next course was one of those compositions that leave a mark in the mouth and that one would repeat if it weren't a tasting. It is the squid tartare, seasoned with salt and pepper and a touch of olive oil, served with a caviar topping and finished at the table with chicken tea. A silky combination on the palate, full of nuances and unforgettable.
The next dish was red mullet with a sauce based on the same fish and a caramelized onion and coffee puree, pickled mussels, and dots of tarragon oil. Again, harmonious, full of sea, and with perfectly cooked elements.
Local product
As for meats, the star dish of the moment was a lamb loin with designation of origin from Pobla de Segur, with a sauce and a croquette made with the same meat. Smooth and juicy, it is accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke puree, Jerusalem artichokes and a finish of dehydrated enoki mushroom. As a carnivorous alternative, pork cheek is offered, with a similar presentation.The sweet moment was a delicious cheesecake with raspberry and various dressings also based on raspberry. We were also able to try their current chocolate proposal.
It is worth highlighting a careful selection of wines, with more than 50 varieties, and a lot of attention to Catalan D.O.s. And the fact that it has a private room at the back for groups of up to 10 people.
BaLó, at calle Déu i Mata, number 141, in Barcelona, opens from Tuesday to Saturday from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and from 8:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.