For some years now, bridal fashion has been changing: it no longer responds to a single wedding model, but to multiple ways of celebrating, dressing, and understanding this date. Today, getting married no longer implies following pre-established rules, but creating one's own. In this changing context, Barcelona wants to consolidate itself as an international benchmark in the sector. From April 22 to 26, the Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week will transform Fira de Barcelona into the industry's great meeting point, with 34 designers on the runway —among them, the acclaimed couturier Stéphane Rolland— and 420 brands in the exhibition space, 87% international.
At the helm of the fair is Albasarí Caro, with experience in companies such as Pronovias, Bimba y Lola, and Mango, and a deep knowledge of the sector, from product development to the final consumer. Since she took over the management in 2022, the fair has experienced a period of consolidation and international projection: but, beyond the growth in figures, for Caro the real leap forward has been to consolidate itself as a global benchmark, a platform to which the industry not only comes to anticipate bridal fashion trends, but also to do business.
— Has Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week really consolidated itself as a benchmark in the sector? In what aspects is this evident?
— We perceive this influence in direct contact with the different industry agents, who tell us that they already reserve these dates in their calendar because they want to be in Barcelona. This fact also entails a great responsibility, as we must generate value at all levels. Being a benchmark today is not just about growing in surface area or in the number of brands, as we do every year, but about having a true capacity for influence: for the sector to look to you to anticipate trends and understand where the business is evolving. And precisely that is the influence we have achieved: over time, brands have ended up looking to Barcelona to understand the future of bridal fashion.
— And when these industry agents come to Barcelona, what are they really looking for?
— The commercial axis remains paramount. There are brands that manage to close more than 50% of their annual turnover during the days of the fair. For buyers, it is the time to see the collections of the brands they already work with and place orders for their respective stores. But they also come to discover new brands. From the organization, we do prior international research to incorporate proposals that, due to time or budget, many of them would not be able to find on their own: with brands arriving from places as diverse as New Zealand or Malaysia. It is, in essence, a selection task: detecting talent in distant markets and bringing it together at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week.
The runway will feature collections from 34 designers. © Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week — How is this brand selection process?
— It is based on listening to the industry and closely following the latest trends. We have collaborators in 12 countries who help us detect trends and emerging brands. In addition, the team travels constantly, we maintain conversations with buyers and gather their concerns. In many cases, they themselves suggest new firms to us. For example, if at an event someone mentions a new brand to me, I immediately write it down on my phone to investigate it later. From there, we analyze the product, quality, commercial viability, and coherence of the project. When everything fits, conversations begin. It is a very organic process, based on continuous knowledge and understanding of the sector.
"People are still getting married, but they are doing it in a different way than the traditional one, than what we could have imagined a few years ago"
— Among the brands showcased at the event, there is a strong international presence. In this edition, more than 87% of the exhibiting firms come from outside Spain. How is this international dimension balanced with local talent?
— For us, it is a priority to support Catalan and Spanish brands. Whenever we detect that a firm is ready (in terms of product quality, production, and export capacity), we give it space. We want to represent our local market. At the same time, the sector is global, and this internationalization is reflected in the very nature of the event, where we seek a balance between both dimensions.
— What is the local ecosystem like? Is there emerging talent?
— There is a lot of talent, creativity, and eagerness. We are in contact with numerous brands that are growing and that, at some point, will make the international leap. However, these firms need more structural support: financing, infrastructure, accompaniment... Many operate with very limited resources, and their merit is enormous. From the salon, we try to give them visibility and opportunities, but it is an effort that must be collective.
— What role do international buyers play?
— They are fundamental. Asia continues to be a very important market for the salon, and buyers continue to attend regularly, although this year the flow may fluctuate slightly due to the global geopolitical context. Since the pandemic, the salon has faced different unforeseen events in each edition and, even so, has always managed to maintain the call and international presence. In addition to Asia, we have observed an increase in buyers from the United States and markets such as Brazil.
The director of the Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, Albasarí Caro. © Fira de Barcelona — Más allá del espacio expositivo, la Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week también brilla en la pasarela. En esta edición, con propuestas especialmente destacadas como el desfile de Stéphane Rolland en la Barcelona Bridal Night. ¿Qué aporta al salón la presencia de un diseñador como Rolland?
— Stéphane Rolland es uno de los pocos couturiers independientes que quedan en el mundo, al margen de los grandes grupos. Es un creador que trabaja de forma totalmente artesanal, implicado en todo el proceso, desde el diseño hasta la confección. Su desfile aporta precisamente visión: una moda muy pura, casi artística. Además, su propuesta va más allá del desfile tradicional. Es una experiencia sensorial en la que intervienen la moda, la música y la arquitectura del propio espacio de Fira de Montjuïc. Muy en la línea de cómo se entiende hoy la moda: no solo como prendas de vestir, sino como una experiencia completa y un universo propio.
"La moda no se entiende solo como prendas de vestir, sino como una experiencia completa"
— Además, antes de su desfile, estudiantes catalanes presentarán sus propuestas también en la pasarela. ¿Qué importancia tiene esta iniciativa?
— Es fundamental. Si no impulsamos el talento joven, no habrá relevo generacional. Los estudiantes necesitan visibilidad y reconocimiento. En este caso, el nivel de los estudiantes es sorprendente, con propuestas que incluso alcanzan estándares de alta costura. Rolland se ha implicado muchísimo en el proceso, con viajes constantes para reunirse con los alumnos y feedback continuo.
— Beyond the exhibition space, Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week also shines on the runway. In this edition, with especially outstanding proposals such as Stéphane Rolland's show at Barcelona Bridal Night. What does the presence of a designer like Rolland bring to the event?
— Stéphane Rolland is one of the few independent couturiers left in the world, outside of the big groups. He is a creator who works entirely by hand, involved in the entire process, from design to manufacturing. His show precisely brings vision: a very pure, almost artistic fashion. Furthermore, his proposal goes beyond the traditional fashion show. It is a sensory experience involving fashion, music, and the architecture of the Fira de Montjuïc space itself. Very much in line with how fashion is understood today: not just as clothing, but as a complete experience and a universe of its own.
"Fashion is not understood only as clothing, but as a complete experience"
— In addition, before his show, Catalan students will also present their proposals on the runway. How important is this initiative?
— It is fundamental. If we do not promote young talent, there will be no generational replacement. Students need visibility and recognition. In this case, the level of the students is surprising, with proposals that even reach haute couture standards. Rolland has been very involved in the process, with constant trips to meet with the students and continuous feedback.
The French designer Stéphane Rolland and the director of Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, Albasarí Caro. © Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week— How is bridal fashion currently evolving?
— We see several clear trends. On the one hand, transformable dresses, pieces that the bride can adapt and reuse not only on the big day, but also on other occasions. On the other hand, there is a commitment to more creative structures and fabric combinations. But, above all, we see a strong demand for personalization. The bride wants a unique dress, adapted to her identity, even if it can start from an existing piece from the collection.
The sector must evolve at the pace of society and open up to different realities: brides, grooms, diverse styles, ages, and forms of celebration. Each person must be able to marry as they wish, without prejudice: at the age they deem appropriate, with whom they desire, and in the manner they prefer, even with a garment that does not necessarily have to be a dress. The bride remains the central axis of the salon, but we are progressively opening up to other universes, such as party fashion (for guests) and also the male universe. This is a path we will continue to advance on to expand the offering.
"Each person must be able to marry as they wish, without prejudice: at the age they deem appropriate, with whom they desire and in the manner they prefer"
— Has the way people get married changed? Are there fewer weddings?
— More than a decrease, we observe that wedding formats have transformed. People are still getting married, but they are doing so in a different way than the traditional one, which we could have imagined a few years ago. The bride no longer follows pre-established social norms, but creates her own. Now, more personal experiences are sought, designed for the couple and their closest circle. There can be several celebrations, and even several garments: two or three dresses, usually with less volume, one more ceremonial and others more casual. The challenge is to understand how they are celebrating and what each couple needs to respond to this new way of celebrating.