July 2007, more than a decade ago, saw the launch of 080 Barcelona Fashion with the aim of reactivating the textile sector in Catalonia by generating synergies with young Catalan designers. There have now been 21 editions of the 080 catwalk and, once again, it has demonstrated the potential of Catalan creators, taking into account the importance of the market and the need to give fashion a commercial outlet.
Fashion draws more and more from the digital world, from online shopping and style trend-setters, called influencers. So much so that, for the first time, the edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion inaugurated on Monday 29 January embraced the 2.0 generation and the power of social media. Being a pioneer has always been the leitmotif of this event. The fashion show by Ze García featured models, but also influencers like Dulceida, with two million followers on Instagram; Laura Escanes, wife of Risto Mejide; Patry Jordan and Jessica Goicoechea, among others. “All together they have 10 million followers,” pointed out event director Miquel Rodríguez. This year the event again took place at the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site, which has become the permanent site for our Fashion Week.
Fashion influencers fill 080 Barcelona Fashion: Laura Escanes, Patry Jordan and Jessica Goicoechea. Together, 10 million followers
The collection presented by Ze García is called Millennial Culture, a festival of cocktail dresses in silk and gauze inspired by the great Charles Frederick Worth, the designer who revolutionised the fashion world with Empress Eugenie in the English court in the late 19th century. Classic lines with suggestive sleeveless tops, plunging necklines and slits up to the hip.
Millennial Culture, collection of cocktail dresses in silk and gauze presented by Ze García, inspired by the great Charles Frederick Worth
García, who works on commission creating custom bridal gowns and cocktail dresses with the desire to recover the artisan work methods of great designers from the past two centuries tells us “I’m really happy to be back at 080 Barcelona Fashion. I had my first show here last year and for this edition I was in charge of the inauguration. It was a great responsibility, but also really exciting. We wanted to do something special, with a huge media impact, and I think we’ve done it. We’ve very happy with the result.”
Some of the most renowned names in Catalan design met on Tuesday, including Antonio Miró, Txell Miras, Krizia Robustella or Miriam Ponsa, who showed off their suggestions for the 2018 autumn/winter season. On Friday, Krizia was announced as the winner of the Government of Catalonia National Prize for the Best Collection, with Brain & Beast. The designer, known for making sports clothes chic, has been able to convey another boom in the field of design, the wildest illustration, in a collection with collaboration from illustrator Susana López to create a series of pieces in which nothing is what it seems. Dresses, sweatshirts and trousers that pretend to be something they’re not. A reflection on youth today and the phenomena of falsification with colour as its emblem.
On this second day of the event, some menswear was also presented from JNORIG and MANS Concept Menswear. Javier Girón, under his alias JNORIG, brought us a series of proposals with a fusion of cultures as its common denominator, a bridge between the cold of north-western Canada, inhabited by Inuits, and the warmth of the Arabian desert and Semitic people. White, black and grey tones, with striped panels, in a geometric play of pattern-making. A contemporary design look that was also seen in the Make America Great Again collection by Javier Álvarez for MANS, inspired by schools in New York. An exercise in modern dressmaking based on research into new fabrics that took the Government of Catalonia National Prize for Emerging Design sponsored by Desigual .
JNORIG brought us a series of proposals with a fusion of cultures as its common denominator, a bridge between the cold of north-western Canada, inhabited by Inuits, and the warmth of the Arabian desert
On Wednesday, the collections from historical Catalan brands had an important presence, including Naulover, Torras and Escorpion. The Naulover collection for next winter is a tribute to romanticism with flowy dresses and relaxed skirt and trouser outfits reminiscent of pyjamas. This fashion show took us to a paradise garden and won the award for Best Collection by an International Brand from the Catalan Cluster of Fashion (MODACC).
Torras, however, opted to keep us in the 19th century city with metro stations as their inspiration, transformed into urban museums where gentlemen moved around in jackets and sweaters made of jacquard and faded fabrics. Pieces in which smartness merges with fun underground touches.
Torras takes inspiration from metro stations, transformed into urban museums. Jackets and jacquard with underground touches
Escorpion showed that being a commercial brand doesn’t mean you can’t be on the cutting-edge of design. “Feel is the name of the collection because you can see, touch and feel it. This is essential in the digital era, when everything is on the screen,” reflected designer of this great firm specialising in knitwear and tricot, Sybille Horaist. An explosion of exuberant colours and prints with a crucial role in styling, from Jaume Vidiella: “It’s a pleasure to work with brands that want to stay current and are committed to young talent, like in this case for the accessories, with pieces by Gonzalo Cutrina and Pedrusco, while still staying true to the brand’s inestimable core.”
Escorpion presented its Feel collection, a symbol of the digital era
The second to the last day also featured identity and tailoring, with oversize outfits for empowered women from Lebor Gabala and Brain & Beast. The firm led by Ángel Vilda, which shared the Government of Catalonia National Prize for the Best Collection with Krizia Robustella, takes us into the world of the subconscious with silhouettes and colours that are not traditionally found in men’s wardrobes. Another sublime exercise in miscellanea that combines emotion and reason, sophistication and humour.
The cherry on top of this event came with Custo Dalmau and his 2018 spring/summer collection entitled Call me tomorrow, presented in New York last September. Dalmau, one of the most international names in Catalan fashion, is a benchmark in the much-needed ongoing renewal in the fashion world: “We want to give an advanced reading of what is on the mass fashion market and take a risk.” Artisan work, new fabrics and, as always, contrasting colours as his emblem. A tribute to hip hop and fashion from the streets, in a deluxe spring the brand has already put on sale, clearly reflecting the “see now, buy now” trend.
Call me tomorrow, the new collection from Custo Dalmau that unites artisan work, new fabrics and contrasting colours
Barcelona Fashion Week came to a close on Friday with highlights like new knitwear creations from Ester Ferrando, designs for the little ones from Boboli and a spectacular posthumous tribute to the great Azzedine Alaïa with a performance by ballerina and choreographer Blanca Li.
More than 32,000 people enjoyed the fashion shows and a series of parallel activities ranging from panel discussions to the essential meetings that take place among designers, brands, sponsors and distributors at the 080 Barcelona Fashion Showroom, organised by the Catalan Cluster of Fashion (MODACC), in cooperation with the Consorci de Comerç, Artesania i Moda de Catalunya (CCAM-Government of Catalonia). Another example of the energy and vitality of the Catalan textile industry, with Barcelona as a global benchmark in innovation, creativity and international projection of design in the fashion world.